temperature gauge
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
temperature gauge
Hi all
Just broke a timing belt and spent the last 3 weekends sorting that out. Car runs much better now. Only thing is, when I accelerate hard the temperature gauge dropps suddenly, the harder I load the engine the more it drops, almost like a vacuum gauge. Got me beat. Has anyone had this problem before, or maybe know what it is
Just broke a timing belt and spent the last 3 weekends sorting that out. Car runs much better now. Only thing is, when I accelerate hard the temperature gauge dropps suddenly, the harder I load the engine the more it drops, almost like a vacuum gauge. Got me beat. Has anyone had this problem before, or maybe know what it is
Did anybody bring any superglue, or are we doin a bodgy with the race tape again?
~~DRIVES~~
1997 Lanos (1.5 SOHC 5-speed)
1973 MkI Ford Escort
1966 Austin 1800 - broken good ($500)
~~DRIVES~~
1997 Lanos (1.5 SOHC 5-speed)
1973 MkI Ford Escort
1966 Austin 1800 - broken good ($500)
hey there .... i got the same problem ... i got a 1999 lanos 16V 1.6
i had my head gasket blow ..... got it all fixed but after 4 weeks the cam belt snapped cause the power steering pump was leaking and caused the timing belt to snap do to the cam belt getting the solution on it over a period of 4 weeks .... JUST got it fixed now again and its working fine except for 3 problems ....
1. no torque at low RPM's as if the RPM's drop and cant get to pull off fast unless i rev the car above 3000 RPM
2. engine light inside the car is staying on with the word "CHECK" being displayed
3. last but not least the two fans at the radiator that should come on when the car gets hot is busy running non stop from starting the car to turning it off.
hopefully i will be able to sent it to a friend tomorrow that will put the car on a machine to check the petrol/oxygen settings and co2 settings. i will report back what he says about all the faults .... perhaps something will help you with your problem.
I'm lucky that the agents for my car's engine (Williams Hunt Delta) are in town and i get parts easily available as they just order it from the factory here in Port Elizabeth.
speak again soon
Ettienne
i had my head gasket blow ..... got it all fixed but after 4 weeks the cam belt snapped cause the power steering pump was leaking and caused the timing belt to snap do to the cam belt getting the solution on it over a period of 4 weeks .... JUST got it fixed now again and its working fine except for 3 problems ....
1. no torque at low RPM's as if the RPM's drop and cant get to pull off fast unless i rev the car above 3000 RPM
2. engine light inside the car is staying on with the word "CHECK" being displayed
3. last but not least the two fans at the radiator that should come on when the car gets hot is busy running non stop from starting the car to turning it off.
hopefully i will be able to sent it to a friend tomorrow that will put the car on a machine to check the petrol/oxygen settings and co2 settings. i will report back what he says about all the faults .... perhaps something will help you with your problem.
I'm lucky that the agents for my car's engine (Williams Hunt Delta) are in town and i get parts easily available as they just order it from the factory here in Port Elizabeth.
speak again soon
Ettienne
Re: temperature gauge
check the signal connection from the temp sensor... it is somewere on the intake as i remeber.mcphuk wrote:Hi all
Just broke a timing belt and spent the last 3 weekends sorting that out. Car runs much better now. Only thing is, when I accelerate hard the temperature gauge dropps suddenly, the harder I load the engine the more it drops, almost like a vacuum gauge. Got me beat. Has anyone had this problem before, or maybe know what it is
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
follow same recommendation in previous postZealotors wrote:hey there .... i got the same problem ... i got a 1999 lanos 16V 1.6
always replace before 60k milesi had my head gasket blow ..... got it all fixed but after 4 weeks the cam belt snapped cause the power steering pump was leaking and caused the timing belt to snap do to the cam belt getting the solution on it over a period of 4 weeks .... JUST got it fixed now again and its working fine except for 3 problems ....
check timing and make sure it is correct as well as vacuum lines to the VGIS system.1. no torque at low RPM's as if the RPM's drop and cant get to pull off fast unless i rev the car above 3000 RPM
probably got a sensor not properly connected, get her scaned and see what code is stored.2. engine light inside the car is staying on with the word "CHECK" being displayed
temp sesors for fans is unplugged or faulty temp sensor... it is located on the head near the coil pack.3. last but not least the two fans at the radiator that should come on when the car gets hot is busy running non stop from starting the car to turning it off.
MMamdouhhopefully i will be able to sent it to a friend tomorrow that will put the car on a machine to check the petrol/oxygen settings and co2 settings. i will report back what he says about all the faults .... perhaps something will help you with your problem.
I'm lucky that the agents for my car's engine (Williams Hunt Delta) are in town and i get parts easily available as they just order it from the factory here in Port Elizabeth.
speak again soon
Ettienne
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
MMamdouh thanx
the temp sensor is right behind the 1st cylinder just under the coil pack (fuel injection) .... seems okay and pushed it as far as i can but there is another pluggy thing thats got no place to plug in to ... might this be something just extra which my car isnt using or something that must go somewhere ??? i could supply pics if needed .... if i can get my camera in that space as its VERY close and near pipes and stuff.
Ettienne
the temp sensor is right behind the 1st cylinder just under the coil pack (fuel injection) .... seems okay and pushed it as far as i can but there is another pluggy thing thats got no place to plug in to ... might this be something just extra which my car isnt using or something that must go somewhere ??? i could supply pics if needed .... if i can get my camera in that space as its VERY close and near pipes and stuff.
Ettienne
unplug it and make sure their is no dirt or crap that is making a bad contact point... if it is ok then maybe the sensor is bad.
i am saying that because the fail safe for a bad temp sensor is running the fans at high speed all the time.
MMamdouh
i am saying that because the fail safe for a bad temp sensor is running the fans at high speed all the time.
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
i just did that 5 posts upwards.mcphuk wrote:Hey MMamdouh any ideas on the weird temp gauge?
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
My 0.02,Zealotors wrote:MMamdouh thanx
the temp sensor is right behind the 1st cylinder just under the coil pack (fuel injection) .... seems okay and pushed it as far as i can but there is another pluggy thing thats got no place to plug in to ... might this be something just extra which my car isnt using or something that must go somewhere ??? i could supply pics if needed .... if i can get my camera in that space as its VERY close and near pipes and stuff.
Ettienne
Check if you have two temp sensors.
ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor) that only drives the instrument cluster gauge.
CTS (coolant temperature sensor) that sends temp info to the ECM.
Both sould be on engine head under intake manifold on A16DMS DOHC engine.
Daniel
hey guys .... ok so i checked my car in and 30min later they sorted my problem out with radiator fans that was blowing from start of the motor and also the whole idling at 2000 RPM .... it was some cable that wasnt plugged in behind the block at the intake side ..... BUT
now im still sitting with the no acceleration at low RPM's ..... the guy said it should be better but it isnt ..... for example .... i go around a 90 Degree corner and when i come out of the corner im in second gear at 2000 rpm .... as soon as i am through the turn i accelerate (or try to anyway) and it basically purr purr's until the RPM climbs slowly to 3000RPM and the i can drive again like im use to with quick response from the car .....
any ideas at all ??? and keep in mind they plugged in the car this morning and it reads that everything is fine and the engine check light isnt on any more .... so yeah .... please help with any ideas ???
Zealotor
now im still sitting with the no acceleration at low RPM's ..... the guy said it should be better but it isnt ..... for example .... i go around a 90 Degree corner and when i come out of the corner im in second gear at 2000 rpm .... as soon as i am through the turn i accelerate (or try to anyway) and it basically purr purr's until the RPM climbs slowly to 3000RPM and the i can drive again like im use to with quick response from the car .....
any ideas at all ??? and keep in mind they plugged in the car this morning and it reads that everything is fine and the engine check light isnt on any more .... so yeah .... please help with any ideas ???
Zealotor
Mine was simple fix.... Sensor wasnt clipped on all the way.
Love these forums. Keep up the great work!
P.S. with the new head she runs like a treat, no noise at all, hard to tell if its even running at the lights.
Love these forums. Keep up the great work!
P.S. with the new head she runs like a treat, no noise at all, hard to tell if its even running at the lights.
Did anybody bring any superglue, or are we doin a bodgy with the race tape again?
~~DRIVES~~
1997 Lanos (1.5 SOHC 5-speed)
1973 MkI Ford Escort
1966 Austin 1800 - broken good ($500)
~~DRIVES~~
1997 Lanos (1.5 SOHC 5-speed)
1973 MkI Ford Escort
1966 Austin 1800 - broken good ($500)