pulling engine
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pulling engine
about how long would it take to pull the motor in my lanos 1.6 to put in some forged pistons and rods, and some arp bolts? a saturday and sunday should be long enough?
silver 99 lanos hatchback
- BosnianLanos
- Expert
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- Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 10:31 pm
- Location: Clearwater, Florida
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If this is your first time ever doing something like this, then I highly doubt that 2 days is enough. Even if you are more experienced, 2 days of work is still pushing the limits of a total rebuild of the engine. I would dedicate a few more days to the rebuild just so that you don't have to rush and potentially cause a major problem.
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
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- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
If all you are doing is throwing in rods and pistons why pull the engine?
Do you have a "do it yourself" shop where you can rent an automotive hoist by the hour?
--> remove the cylinder head following OEM bolt removal pattern so as to avoid warping the head.
--> remove the oil pan
--> remove connecting rod bolts from underneath,
--> push out the pistons and rods from underneath (use something that won't mark the cylinder wall such as a clean soft plastic rod)
--> check the bore for ridges
(if ridges are present you might want to think about removing the engine and having the cylinder bored out... which requires the use of oversized pistons )
--> use a cylinder hone with an electric drill and engine oil to give the cylinders a cross hatched pattern.
--> Insert new rods, rings, connecting rods, con rod bearings
--> bolt up the rods to the crank and torque them accoring to specifications
--> throw on a new gasket, install cylinder head and torque according to specifications in OEM bolt sequence.
--> change your oil and test engine.
--> follow a "break in procedure" to seat the rings and change the oil after 500km.
If you don't know how to hone the cylinders, size the con rod bearings, install compress and insert piston rings it should be a snap.... it should take you less than a day if you know what your doing.
If you don't know what your doing..... find a mechanic that is familiar with engine work to help you.
Personally.... I'd remove the cylinder head first just to see the condition of the cylinder bores prior to ordering pistons.
If you need to bore it out then it's going to cost way more and take way more time to get things the way they should be.
I'd guess that an experienced mechanic should be able to do everything in under 8 hours.... which would only cost you a few hundred dollars if your doing it cash under the table.
A couple hundred now could save you thousands if the engine blows up due to inexperienced installation.
Break in procedures vary heavily.... I've researched it and found a dozen different methods for seating the rings.
Some say to accelerate very hard up to around 3500RPM and then slam on the brakes.... do this 5 times and then drive around for 20 minutes at various RPM levels between 2000 and 3500 (don't stay at one RPM for more than a minute or two )
This seems to be one of the most common methods..... like I said.... methods for seating rings are totally different depending on who you talk to.
It's very important to seat the rings.... the rings have to conform to the exact dimensions of the bore.... if you take it easy and don't "load" them you could end up with all kinds of problems such as low compression or glazing of the cylinder wall.
Do you have a "do it yourself" shop where you can rent an automotive hoist by the hour?
--> remove the cylinder head following OEM bolt removal pattern so as to avoid warping the head.
--> remove the oil pan
--> remove connecting rod bolts from underneath,
--> push out the pistons and rods from underneath (use something that won't mark the cylinder wall such as a clean soft plastic rod)
--> check the bore for ridges
(if ridges are present you might want to think about removing the engine and having the cylinder bored out... which requires the use of oversized pistons )
--> use a cylinder hone with an electric drill and engine oil to give the cylinders a cross hatched pattern.
--> Insert new rods, rings, connecting rods, con rod bearings
--> bolt up the rods to the crank and torque them accoring to specifications
--> throw on a new gasket, install cylinder head and torque according to specifications in OEM bolt sequence.
--> change your oil and test engine.
--> follow a "break in procedure" to seat the rings and change the oil after 500km.
If you don't know how to hone the cylinders, size the con rod bearings, install compress and insert piston rings it should be a snap.... it should take you less than a day if you know what your doing.
If you don't know what your doing..... find a mechanic that is familiar with engine work to help you.
Personally.... I'd remove the cylinder head first just to see the condition of the cylinder bores prior to ordering pistons.
If you need to bore it out then it's going to cost way more and take way more time to get things the way they should be.
I'd guess that an experienced mechanic should be able to do everything in under 8 hours.... which would only cost you a few hundred dollars if your doing it cash under the table.
A couple hundred now could save you thousands if the engine blows up due to inexperienced installation.
Break in procedures vary heavily.... I've researched it and found a dozen different methods for seating the rings.
Some say to accelerate very hard up to around 3500RPM and then slam on the brakes.... do this 5 times and then drive around for 20 minutes at various RPM levels between 2000 and 3500 (don't stay at one RPM for more than a minute or two )
This seems to be one of the most common methods..... like I said.... methods for seating rings are totally different depending on who you talk to.
It's very important to seat the rings.... the rings have to conform to the exact dimensions of the bore.... if you take it easy and don't "load" them you could end up with all kinds of problems such as low compression or glazing of the cylinder wall.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos