How to: Timing belt replacment on a 1.6 16 valve DOHC

[MMamdouh]

Tools Required
? J-42492 Timing Belt Adjuster



? KM-470-B Angular Torque Gauge



Removal Procedure

1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector.
3.Disconnect the air intake tube from the throttle body.
4.Disconnect the breather tube from the valve cover



5.Remove the air filter housing bolts.
6.Remove the air filter housing.



7.Remove the right front wheel.
8.Remove the right front splash shield.
9.Remove the A/C compressor drive belt, if equipped.



10.Remove the alternator drive belt.
11.Remove the power steering pump pulley bolts, if equipped.

if you have a nubira/lacetti/forenza then drop steps9, 10 & 11 and Remove the serpentine accessory drive belt by rotating the tensioner pulley bolt to clockwise using DW110-080



12.Remove the power steering pump pulley, if equipped.
13.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
14.Remove the crankshaft pulley.



15.Remove the upper front timing belt cover bolts.
16.Remove the upper front timing belt cover.
17.Remove the lower front timing belt cover bolts.
18.Remove the lower front timing belt cover.



19.Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts, if equipped.
20.Install the crankshaft pulley bolt.
21.Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the notch at the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.



22.Slightly loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts.
23.Using the timing belt adjuster J-42492, rotate the coolant pump counterclockwise to release the tension on the timing belt. Important: Remove the timing belt behind the power steering pump.



24.Remove the timing belt.




if you have a nubira/lacetti/forenza you will have to support the engine by a floor jack and remove the front engine mount to remove the timing belt.



Installation Procedure

1.Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear to the notch on the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.



2.Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears. Important: Insert the timing belt behind the power steering pump.



In case the cam marks are not aligned correctly: rotate the cam gear in any direction - preferably the one that will make the shortest adjustment - and in case the cam gear seized, do not and I repeat do not use excessive power to rotate it instead; go the other way round till the marks are aligned. also note that the cam shaft might pop out of alignment due to an open valve do you got to make sure you got perfect alignment before putting on the belt (an extra set of hands is required)


3.Install the timing belt.




if you have a nubira/lacetti/forenza you will have to put back the front engine mount and remove the floor jack that is supporting the engine.



4.Rotate the coolant pump clockwise using the timing belt adjuster J-42492.



5.Rotate the coolant pump clockwise until the adjust arm pointer of the timing belt automatic tensioner is aligned to the notch in the timing belt automatic tensioner bracket.



6.Tighten the coolant pump retaining bolts.
7.Rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise using the crankshaft pulley bolt.
8.Loosen the coolant pump retaining bolts.
9.Rotate the coolant pump until the adjust arm pointer of the timing belt automatic tensioner is aligned with the pointer on the timing belt automatic tensioner bracket.



10.Tighten the coolant pump retaining bolts. Tighten the coolant pump retaining bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).



11.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
12.Install the power steering pump mounting bolts, if equipped. Tighten the power steering pump mounting bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
13.Install the upper and lower front timing belt cover.
14.Install the upper and lower front timing belt cover bolts. Tighten the upper and lower front timing belt cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).



15.Install the crankshaft pulley.
16.Install the crankshaft pulley bolt. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.) using a torque wrench. Using the angular torque gauge KM-470-13, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt30 degrees plus 15 degrees.



17.Install the power steering pump pulley, if equipped.
18.Install the power steering pump pulley bolts, if equipped. Tighten the power steering pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
19.Install the alternator drive belt.
20.Install the A/C compressor drive belt, if equipped.



if you have a nubira/lacetti/forenza then drop steps 19 & 20 and put back the serpentine accessory drive belt by rotating the tensioner pulley bolt to anti clockwise using DW110-080



21.Install the right front splash shield.
22.Install the right front wheel.
24.Install the air filter housing.
25.Install the air filter housing bolts. Tighten the air filter housing bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).



26.Connect the air intake tube to the throttle body.
27.Connect the breather tube to the valve cover.
28.Connect the IAT sensor connector.



29.Connect the negative battery cable.

NOTE: it is preferable to replace the timing belt tensioner, idler pulles and the water pump during the timing belt replacement, a tensioner failure is just as bad as a breaking timing belt and replacing the tensioner and\or water pump will require the same amount of work you are already doing to replace the belt.

MMamdouh

[MMamdouh]

This forum was very helpful to me in repairing a 1.6 Lanos, I fiquer I should give some info back that may be useful to someone else. A couple of months ago a friend of my sons had his timming belt break on his 2001 Lanos. After getting some repair estimates he decided that the cost of having it repaired was about what the blue book value of it was. He ask my son if he wanted it fo a couple of days of his labor. My son called me and ask if I would like to work on it. I said why not. We had it towed here and took the head off with the intake and exhoust manifold attached. We attached it to a engine stand. We found four severly bent exhoust valves, although a few more had been hitting the pistons. We also discovered that you cant get the water pump pully compleatly off without removing the engine. We just let it hang there after taking out the bolts. We found that the lifters wouldn't pump up so we took them apart and cleaned them, then they pumped up. We decided to purchase new ones tho since we didn't know if the tiny ring keepers were seated back where they should go. To purchase parts we went to the local Chevy dealer. The parts guy didn't know if it was the same engine as the Aveo and told me that if I ordered them for a Aveo I would have to pay for them in advance and there would be no refunds. We paid for them and when they came in he was amazed that they were in Daewoo boxes. The parts, four valves and 16 lifters and some gaskets. head gasket and seels and belt tensioner and pully and head bolts and timming belt cost $501.44. To get the valves out we made a valve spring compressor by drilling two holes in a piece of flat stock and running two of the old head bolts up threw the head in the bolt holes ajacent to each set of valve, we bent a smaller piece of flat stock into a enlongated C and put it on top of the springs. We then took a large screw driver and pried down. The keepers came out easily althouth it is a little harder to get them back in. I have several valve spring compressors but none of them would fit that haed. We did a pop test on the valve guides and found all but two to pass, after aplying some oil to the stems those passed also.
We began to assemble the head. We hand lapped the valves. Droped in the new lifters after a good coating of oil and put the cams back and stuck the head back on the block with the manifolds still intack. Everything was cleaned first. We began to install the new timming belt. We found that had to leave the bolts out of the power stearing pump to get to the third water pump allen bolt. We didn't know where we could get a 42mm open end wrench so we used a thin pair of chanel lock pliars to turn the water pump to adjust the timming belt tension. These pliers fit perfectly after taking off the alternator mount and the pump was easy to turn with them as they had the perfect angle to get a good grip. Before putting the timming belt colver back I drilled some vent holes into the top cover as I demised that it is a little over engineered and is so tight it doesn't allow for any heat dissipation. The old belt seemed to have slowly cooked in there. I was also amazed at the nominal ware on this engine with 62.000 miles on it..
Once all back together we left the spark plugs out turned the engine over for 15 seconds to prime it and get the oil flowing then we put the plugs back in, it cranked on the first try and after a few minutes the oil began to get to the head and the engine smoothed out and began to run really well.
I hope this rendition can be of help to someone in this forum as the forum has been so helpful to us.

[MMamdouh]

The way the water pump is designed ? It can't be installed in error.

It only goes one way.. those two "C" notches are in there for a reason. When I installed the backplate tin, everything became apparent.
The three engine block bolt holes, that take the bolts that hold the water-pump secure, can't be accesed unless you position the pump properly.

The pump actually positions it'self !!! Smart design !
Than I went thru the service manual procedure. And I had to read it a couple times to fully understand it.

Sooo, my timing belt job is complete ! All the timing (camshaft and crankshaft) marks line up perfectly. Woooooo-Whoooooo!

Thanks to MMamdouh and the service manual. This is not a hard job.
I know it would be more time consuming if it were done in the car. This due to the tight space.

If anyone is thinking of doing it ? I have some advice.
1) don't be in a hurry.. take your time.
2) the crankshaft pulley bolt can not be removed unless you use an air wrench or can figure out a way to lock the crankshaft. (stick shift's in reverse and also held with brakes ?) Automatics? hummmmm ?
3) I didnt need the special water-pump tool. I used vice-grips. But my engine is out of the car, might not be able to use them on a 'in-car' engine.
4) keep everything clean. Use quality parts and its best to replace all the pulleys, adjuster and water-pump along with your new belt. I Think of it as doing myself and my engine a huge favor.
5) if you have any questions ask MMamdouh

Thanks MM !

[MMamdouh]

in case you can get a penumatic tool to do the crank pully bolt; here is a tip that my mechanic use but i am not responsible for any damages if you did that wrong:

get a wrench that is 90 degrees bent and put it firmly on the crank pully bolt where the rest of the wrench's arm is as close as it can be to the suspension's control arm.

with every body away of the car, crank the engine just a tad - split second is enough - till the wrench hits the control arm... this will losen the bolt for sure but dont keep cranking the engine or you will hurt others or your car... just a little spin to loosen the bolt then resume your work with your hands. it is better to remove the coil pack socket and fuel pump relay before doing this to avoid accedently starting the engine or so.

again i say i am not responsble for any injuries or damadges resulting from the use of this method.

MMamdouh

[MMamdouh]

vid showing the replacement process and marks alignment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaWyvBC- ... re=related

MMamdouh

[MMamdouh]

some people got the cams mixed up during head job and that will cause the car not to fire up no matter what you do... to make sure you got the correct setup, make sure the cam gear with the circular holes is at the left side (intake cam) and the cam gear with the oval holes is at the right side (exhaust cam) as shown in the illustrative pic below



MMamdouh