I need help

Forced induction, NA tunning, exhaust, just performance

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nasser
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I need help

Post by nasser »

please guide me,
I turboed my lanos 1.6 16v but the engine is cutting then shuts off. The mechanics told me to change the injectors. any ideas?????
should I change the spark plugs????
Stefan
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Re: I need help

Post by Stefan »

nasser wrote:please guide me,
I turboed my lanos 1.6 16v but the engine is cutting then shuts off. The mechanics told me to change the injectors. any ideas?????
should I change the spark plugs????
Could you please tell us exactly what has been done to the engine. What boost pressure your running, any modifications to the engine, fuelling etc.

Stef
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
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PrecisionBoost
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

I have no idea if you know what you are doing so I will start with the most obvious issue.

I'm assuming that your still using the stock ECU.... If you don't have check valves allready installed you will have to do so in order to make the ECU happy.

A naturally aspirated ECU won't like to see boost... the ECU would probably shut things down thinking there is a major problem.

So your car would run at idle and run until the turbo kicks in at say 2000RPM to 2500RPM.... does that sound like your problem?

As far as fuel delivery.... once boost starts the ECU won't spit out enough fuel so you need something to help increase the fuel pressure such as a rising rate fuel regulator ( known as a FMU )

Without it your engine won't get enough fuel and boom the engine will blow up and cause major damage.

Larger Injectors might help solve the problem but it will run crappy in the lower RPM range due to the fact that it will be dumping in too much fuel.

The rising rate regulator is the best option because it keeps the fuel levels normal at low RPM and increases fuel pressure as you start to make boost (which is what you want)

The more fuel pressure you have the more fuel the injectors will spit out
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GsiTurbo
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Post by GsiTurbo »

As another add-on, the stock MAP will have to be tricked from seeing the boost (what Erfinder already mention).

The more details about the upgrade you give us, and the more detailed explanation of the problem, the better the answers will be.
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nasser
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Post by nasser »

well, I start the car and warm it up then drive it and it goes ok with boost 5. But then after fue miles it starts to strugle then booooom the engine cuts off.
I am using bosch fuel pump( the one you can find it on marcides 500). Racing wires, splitfire spark plugs (truple platinum), custum headers with 2.5 inch down pipe and nitto racing mufler.
The turbo is from NISSAN RB20 engine.
Do you recumand me to put a biger engine regulater lets say leganza or opel???? or there is a spacial fule regulator for turbo upgrade???
DomWoo
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Post by DomWoo »

did you turbo the car or did you have someone do it for you??

like GSIturbo and Erfinder both said you NEED a check valve before the MAP sensor and anything else that shouldnt see boost

sounds to me that either one of two things are happening.

1, check valve not installed or not working and when it gets past a certain amount of boost it shuts down

2, not getting any fuel past a certain rpm

i have asked people what they think the stock FPR (fuel pressure regulator) would do under boost but no one knew for sure, so that could be your problem, the only way to know whats going on with your fuel system is to set up a fuel pressure guage

as far as a FMU, go on ebay and look up a vortech fuel management unit, you need about a 10:1 disk so that you know your getting enough fuel then use a bleeder valve to fine tune it. or there is tons of expansive ones out there that will do the same thing

you havent left us with any information that we can use so you need to be more detailed on what all you did to your car and what all you didnt do..
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GsiTurbo
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Post by GsiTurbo »

From the limited information that you gave us, it appears your car is dying after the turbo spools up, and its producing boost.

Like WooHoo said, your MAP must never see the boost, this can be done in two ways:

- either check valve (already mentioned)
- or a Fuel Cut defender, which will modify the MAP signal

You will also need check valves on all vacuum lines connected to the intake manifold, as there must be no boost pressurizing the crankcase ventilation.

Have you had your car professionaly checked? What is your A/F ratio under boost? Are you still using the stock injectors or aftermarket? If so, what are their specs? How is your FMU set? What is your fuel pressure @ idle and at max boost? How is the engine running with no boost?

We do want to help, but you do need to provide more information.
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Stefan
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Post by Stefan »

WooHoo wrote:i have asked people what they think the stock FPR (fuel pressure regulator) would do under boost but no one knew for sure, so that could be your problem, the only way to know whats going on with your fuel system is to set up a fuel pressure guage
A stock fuel pressure reg will increase fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi of boost increase ie. 1:1 ratio, which as you know, ain't enough.

Stef
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
richardmatalon
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Post by richardmatalon »

The problem is the map sensor. I am not sure if the lanos ma sensor is on the intake manifold like in the nubira or if it is on h firewall with a tube running to it like other cars. More than likely on the intake manifold. What you can do is to buy a gm 1 bar map sensor and leave the one that is on the intake manifold. Then disconnect the wire harness from it and connect it to the gm harness, then run a piece of hose to the map senor, which you could mont on the firewall or somewhere, and put some one way valves in the line. you would need to set it up so that it would blow off the boost. the way you would do this is in the picture that is attachedImage
DomWoo
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Post by DomWoo »

i have been wondering on what check valve would be most reliaible for a good price

anyone have any ideas??
richardmatalon
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Post by richardmatalon »

Check valve are really all the same, you can get them in scrap yards off of old Carbureted cars, (as Carbureted cars used them a lot) or you can just go to your local autoparts store and pick up a couple. They shouldn't be more than like 1$ or maybe 2$.
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