I've sent him msgs on suzuki-forums and I think I even emailed him...he promised pics but hasn't come up with anything. Seams to know his stuff but isnt proving anything.exist3nce wrote:Very true. This guy is planning 10-12 psi for his reno which he claims it will handle safely.... I've spoken with him and he actually did get it running @ 10psi and it put out 210whp, but they were running out of fuel.ubuyau wrote:Dont speak too soon... it IS addictiveexist3nce wrote: hahaha I don't think >15psi will be happening too soon.![]()
--Tim
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2314715
Turbo Optra - Now on tuned Haltech @ 225whp
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
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www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
- PrecisionBoost
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10-12 PSI on the stock engine is certainly achievable..... if your very very carefull how you set up the car.
I'm personally looking at 9psi on a stock U20SED ..... but I would suggest most people stick to 5-7psi just because higher boost levels require some creative tuning and lots of equipment to monitor temperatures ( Exhaust, Intake, Coolant, Oil )
It's a setup where the owner of the car has to monitor and know what's going on with the engine at all times..... which is to say that you can't just get in and drive around without paying attension to all the gauges.
Personally.... I think 5psi with a 50 shot of nitrous (wet kit) would work decently..... that way your only pushing the engine for short periods of time... and you'd end up making just as much as a 12psi U20SED when your on the bottle.
Not to mention the savings of fuel between 5psi and 12psi..... most people can't resist stomping on the gas pedal.
At 10-12 PSI it is my opinion that he's flirting with death...... the stock engine wasn't setup for that much power..... I'd be willing to bet he blows the engine or requires repairs inside a year.
The newer direct injection engines are capable of high boost levels with high compression.
Another thing to consider..... at 10psi to 12psi he's going to have a hard time putting power to the ground.... you'd need some nice sticky tires, a good performance clutch and a Limited Slip differencial.
Lastly...... a brake upgrade is necissary.... once you start putting down that much power and accelerating fast you need the ability to stop quickly.
Thus..... if someone was going to go and push 12psi into their U20SED.... I would recomend both brakes and suspension upgrades for safety reasons.
I just picked up a Mazda CX7 with the 2.3L MZR engine.... I think it's 9.5:1 running at roughly 15psi of boost.
The Audi 2.0L turbo is even higher compression.... think it's 10.5:1
Don't quote me on the numbers.... just what I remember off the top of my head.
I'm personally looking at 9psi on a stock U20SED ..... but I would suggest most people stick to 5-7psi just because higher boost levels require some creative tuning and lots of equipment to monitor temperatures ( Exhaust, Intake, Coolant, Oil )
It's a setup where the owner of the car has to monitor and know what's going on with the engine at all times..... which is to say that you can't just get in and drive around without paying attension to all the gauges.
Personally.... I think 5psi with a 50 shot of nitrous (wet kit) would work decently..... that way your only pushing the engine for short periods of time... and you'd end up making just as much as a 12psi U20SED when your on the bottle.
Not to mention the savings of fuel between 5psi and 12psi..... most people can't resist stomping on the gas pedal.
At 10-12 PSI it is my opinion that he's flirting with death...... the stock engine wasn't setup for that much power..... I'd be willing to bet he blows the engine or requires repairs inside a year.
The newer direct injection engines are capable of high boost levels with high compression.
Another thing to consider..... at 10psi to 12psi he's going to have a hard time putting power to the ground.... you'd need some nice sticky tires, a good performance clutch and a Limited Slip differencial.
Lastly...... a brake upgrade is necissary.... once you start putting down that much power and accelerating fast you need the ability to stop quickly.
Thus..... if someone was going to go and push 12psi into their U20SED.... I would recomend both brakes and suspension upgrades for safety reasons.
I just picked up a Mazda CX7 with the 2.3L MZR engine.... I think it's 9.5:1 running at roughly 15psi of boost.
The Audi 2.0L turbo is even higher compression.... think it's 10.5:1
Don't quote me on the numbers.... just what I remember off the top of my head.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
So we had some snow here 2 nights ago and we took the opportunity to test it
Check out the video............ mostly part throttle revving to about 4 - 4.5k rpm.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e99f ... f98c35.htm
Also going to post this in the videos section....

Check out the video............ mostly part throttle revving to about 4 - 4.5k rpm.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e99f ... f98c35.htm
Also going to post this in the videos section....
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
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I really wanna go play around in the snow with my car this winter...never even driven my car in snow.exist3nce wrote:So we had some snow here 2 nights ago and we took the opportunity to test it![]()
Check out the video............ mostly part throttle revving to about 4 - 4.5k rpm.
Also going to post this in the videos section....
Just wounder...do cops usuually care if your doing things like that? In an empty parking lot with snow.
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
Oh yeah! Also think about streetbikers doing stunts Behind the buildings in parking lots, that's illegal. Now, this is a public parking lot... and I'm sure this will be considered something like wreckless driving... cops over here suck. You might get away with a warning the first time, but it's up to a cop.kinkyllama wrote:I really wanna go play around in the snow with my car this winter...never even driven my car in snow.exist3nce wrote:So we had some snow here 2 nights ago and we took the opportunity to test it![]()
Check out the video............ mostly part throttle revving to about 4 - 4.5k rpm.
Also going to post this in the videos section....
Just wounder...do cops usuually care if your doing things like that? In an empty parking lot with snow.
Anyways, nice vid... I really LOVE the sound! Sick.
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Really? I'd think they wouldnt care and at most tell you to just leave. I can understand if its owned by someone cuz they would be affraid of getting sued if you hurt yourself.AcingTeam wrote:
Oh yeah! Also think about streetbikers doing stunts Behind the buildings in parking lots, that's illegal. Now, this is a public parking lot... and I'm sure this will be considered something like wreckless driving... cops over here suck. You might get away with a warning the first time, but it's up to a cop.
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
I'm not sure if I'd try 12psi......... but eventually up to 10 I might try. When ever I push it I always do monitor the temps (and since its winter, when I'm moving it never goes above 82 * C). But before I do try for 10 I would certainly want to get a wideband O2, EGT and maybe oil pressure. But I do know exactly what you mean by "can't just get in and drive around".chris@PrecisionBoost wrote:10-12 PSI on the stock engine is certainly achievable..... if your very very carefull how you set up the car.
I'm personally looking at 9psi on a stock U20SED ..... but I would suggest most people stick to 5-7psi just because higher boost levels require some creative tuning and lots of equipment to monitor temperatures ( Exhaust, Intake, Coolant, Oil )
It's a setup where the owner of the car has to monitor and know what's going on with the engine at all times..... which is to say that you can't just get in and drive around without paying attension to all the gauges.
I personally do not like nitrous at all. I see it as taking the easy / cheap way out. Not to mention its totally illegal on the streets here.chris@PrecisionBoost wrote: Personally.... I think 5psi with a 50 shot of nitrous (wet kit) would work decently..... that way your only pushing the engine for short periods of time... and you'd end up making just as much as a 12psi U20SED when your on the bottle.
Not to mention the savings of fuel between 5psi and 12psi..... most people can't resist stomping on the gas pedal.
I would agree as I don't think he has gauges to monitor anything. In my case..... I've seen used motors with ~40k going as cheap as $400, which isn't too bad if you want to see how much the stock can take.chris@PrecisionBoost wrote: At 10-12 PSI it is my opinion that he's flirting with death...... the stock engine wasn't setup for that much power..... I'd be willing to bet he blows the engine or requires repairs inside a year.
Yah I will probably need a new clutch soon, but I'm going to wait until the stock one dies. It seems to be holding fine for now. LSD is out of my price range for now. I'll probably start looking for some better tires in spring. Brakes seem to be fine for now, I'm not really an aggressive driver. In Sept. of 2006 the last time I had my car at the dealer for tune up, I asked them to check my clutch and brakes... they said both still had plenty of life left. The brakes are actually better than I expected for a car of this class. I'll upgrade them only when it feels they are insufficient for how fast I want to stop.chris@PrecisionBoost wrote: Another thing to consider..... at 10psi to 12psi he's going to have a hard time putting power to the ground.... you'd need some nice sticky tires, a good performance clutch and a Limited Slip differencial.
Lastly...... a brake upgrade is necissary.... once you start putting down that much power and accelerating fast you need the ability to stop quickly.
Thus..... if someone was going to go and push 12psi into their U20SED.... I would recomend both brakes and suspension upgrades for safety reasons.
How do you like it ? I test drove a Mazdaspeed 6 (which has same motor) and found the powerband to be sort of strange. Seemed like total weeksauce until about 3k when boost hits. Then it has this insane midrange from 3-5.5k rpm which is great........ but then dies in the top end like the U20SED.chris@PrecisionBoost wrote: I just picked up a Mazda CX7 with the 2.3L MZR engine.... I think it's 9.5:1 running at roughly 15psi of boost.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
Thanks man!AcingTeam wrote: Anyways, nice vid... I really LOVE the sound! Sick.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
kinkyllama wrote: I really wanna go play around in the snow with my car this winter...never even driven my car in snow.
Just wounder...do cops usuually care if your doing things like that? In an empty parking lot with snow.
Yes I would be worried about cops coming, but I guess we got lucky. I don't think they would give us tickets especially for first time, but at least a warning.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
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The CX7 has a smaller turbo inlet which causes the turbo to spool up really quickly ( just over 2000RPM )exist3nce wrote:
I'm not sure if I'd try 12psi......... but eventually up to 10 I might try. When ever I push it I always do monitor the temps (and since its winter, when I'm moving it never goes above 82 * C). But before I do try for 10 I would certainly want to get a wideband O2, EGT and maybe oil pressure. But I do know exactly what you mean by "can't just get in and drive around".
Definitly get oil pressure and oil temperature monitor.... gauges are cheap... and they are transferable between engines and cars.... so it's not like it's a one time investment.
How do you like it ? I test drove a Mazdaspeed 6 (which has same motor) and found the powerband to be sort of strange. Seemed like total weeksauce until about 3k when boost hits. Then it has this insane midrange from 3-5.5k rpm which is great........ but then dies in the top end like the U20SED.chris@PrecisionBoost wrote: I just picked up a Mazda CX7 with the 2.3L MZR engine.... I think it's 9.5:1 running at roughly 15psi of boost.
I find it to be an ON/OFF kind of situation... either it feels like it has no guts.... or it's snapping your head back
I'm putting in a larger turbo.... with a bunch of Cosworth parts from the MZR Formula car engine ( Atlantic series Champ Cars now use Cosworth modified Mazda MZR engines )
I am looking for 350whp or more... and the larger turbo will give it a progressive boost.... instead of the "nothing... nothing.... hold on for dear life" boost levels.
I heard that Mazda has allready come out with an ECU flash to control the boost better.... power is fun... but whiplash isn't.
Overall..... it's a great vehicle.... it's heavy..... but 350whp will make it get up and go.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Well its been a while since something eventful has happened..... still waiting for a better tune which should happen soon. My buddy is almost finished setting up his shop (not going to the same shop who did the initial install).
I haven't been too hard on the clutch but now it started to slip today for the first time on the hwy. I got on the on-ramp and hit it in 4th gear........ the revs started jumping up a bit once the boost kicked in. I'm not that surprised, but its strange it just started to go today because its not like I did anything crazy like launching it before it happened.
Anyways, what clutch do you guys think I should get within reason? I really have no idea what clutches would fit..... Ideally something that would hold 300-400 ftlbs of torque.
I haven't been too hard on the clutch but now it started to slip today for the first time on the hwy. I got on the on-ramp and hit it in 4th gear........ the revs started jumping up a bit once the boost kicked in. I'm not that surprised, but its strange it just started to go today because its not like I did anything crazy like launching it before it happened.
Anyways, what clutch do you guys think I should get within reason? I really have no idea what clutches would fit..... Ideally something that would hold 300-400 ftlbs of torque.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
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Audacity Racing wrote:eclutchmaster stage 2 (may only have stage 1 though)
When I check out their site, I don't see any applications for Optra/Forenza/Reno ????
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
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