Nubaroo - time for some upgrades!!!

[nexia182]

no traction = no times!!!!!!!!!


MUST USE DRAG SLICKS..............................thats it!!!!

[Nubaroo]

I still can't understand how you manage such slow times ( no offense ) with that much power.

I know the Nubira weight is quite a bit more than the Astra MK2 but I figured you would be well into the 12's with an LSD.

I know of a few Dodge SRT-4's that run just under 12 seconds with dyno proven power in the range of 400hp

I'm pretty sure my friend made 405whp and ran an 11.99 .... and he let off the throttle at the end because he was worried they would throw him off the track if he ran much faster without a roll cage.

He did have drag slicks.... but I'm sure he could have pushed the car down into the mid 11's because his interior was stripped which made the car lighter than most of the other SRT-4's out there.

A standard SRT-4 weighs about 2900lbs if I remember correctly..... Nubira is what.... about 2700lbs????




So in theory I still think you should be in the low to mid 12's.

What kind of tires are you running ( manufacturer and size? )

We are still running at the airfield that the guys "lend" us once a month. I am running 17" Toyo R888 semi slicks on the front of the car, and we used trackbite on the day as well. I still get wheelspin in 2nd gear, but not so bad that I have to "tap off" momenterrarily to get traction like before - I just keep the pedal floored!!! The ambient temperature was round 28 degrees Celsius - maybe that does not help???
Here are a vid of my car in action - I have stiffened the back suspension slightly so there is not too much "squat" on pull off???

My engine management has "launch control" which I have not used yet - will get it utilised as well.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxlZ4aOAaS4 - Youtube

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa14 ... 2video.flv - Photobuckett

In car vids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBwJovvR_pw - youtube

http://s196.photobucket.com/albums/aa14 ... ec400m.flv



Any input/suggestions that ca n help me get into the 12second brackett welcome

[Nubaroo]

no traction = no times!!!!!!!!!


MUST USE DRAG SLICKS..............................thats it!!!!

Maybe I can borrow the ones on the Corsa that I raced

[Rodd1s]

having the rear end of the car squat slightly helps a little with traction ( i know the principle mostly applies to rear-wheel drive cars) but it does help eliminate some wheel spin.

for example: a friend i used to go to school with now has a vw polo gti, slammed to the floor on rock-solid coil-overs so theres no body roll or squatting when he pulls away and because of this some slower (less powerful/heavier) cars with softer suspension beats it off the line, eventually the gti does catch up, but straight off the line it spins alot cos theres no where for the "rotational force" of the engine to go to except for the wheels.

a good example of getting the rear suspension right can be seen with the sumo-power skyline r33 drag car... at around 700hp it was beating most 1000hp supras and skylines becos the suspension was finely tuned to give almost perfect traction off the line. (at launch the rear bumper sits just an inch off the ground as opposed to the 6 or 7 inches at stand-still) here's a video which shows it realy well: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=J9DorQwrEcw
in this one the bumper actually hit the ground: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=2f4Eb6qpzjw

if you have fully adjustable suspension you could spend some time trying out the best suspension setups for drag racing... also, think about how the camber of the front wheels change when the front lifts under acceleration... having zero camber at stand-still would give positive camber when the front lifts giving less traction, and having negative camber at standstill mite give zero camber under acceleration which would give more traction... a lot of things to consider.

remember to keep the rear tyres inflated to high pressure to reduce drag etc...

[PrecisionBoost]

Toyo R888 should not be used for drag racing.... they are R-compound tires designed for traction in corners and have very stiff sidewalls.

The stiffer the sidewall the worse things will be for drag racing.

You would be better off with a smaller diameter rim with a tire that has a higher profile.... and you need to drop the air pressure to let the sidewall flex.

If the problem is clearance to brakes..... consider going back to a stock brake setup just for the drag race..... then put on your bigger disks/calipers.


What is the size of your R888's ? 205/40/17 ????


Hmmmmmm..... let's see if I can find a good link to someone talking about dragracing and tire tech.

http://www.evostreetracers.com/howtodragrace.html

They don't get into sidewall stuff .... but trust me.... low profile tires with stiff sidewalls are very bad for drag racing..... just look at a drag slick..... the sidewalls are very soft and grip the track as your put torque to the wheels

Burning out R888 will actually make them have less traction.... they need to be heated up but not by spinning out.... all your really doing is removing perfectly good tire material.... creating a slippery "rubber dust" and changing the heat treatment of the tires.

You would be far better off taking the car and doing like F1 race cars.... go back and fourth left to right in a wave pattern.

After all..... think about it..... F1 race cars do not do burnouts to heat up their tires..... they heat them up with electric blankets and then weave back and fourth on the track.

Your R888's are much closer to F1 tires than drag radials or drag slicks.


So....... my opinion.... get some 15" rims and throw on some drag slicks or drag radials..... then you will not only break into the 12's..... you might even get into the 11's.

[PrecisionBoost]

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... rag+Radial

This is a nice tire..... and as they say..... 15psi to 20psi for drag racing.... then pump it up to normal pressure for driving on the road.

they make them in 225/50/15 which would be perfect for your car.

[nexia182]

wooow bro the nubi looks very powerfull.

[buddha102]

wooow bro the nubi looks very powerfull.

meh i can smoke it

j/k xD

[Nubaroo]

Thanks for all the advice and input guys -- will do what I have to do and hopefully get some good runs on the first Suday in February 2009!!!

[Nubaroo]

Sooooo - my tuner had his dyno recalibrated and my car was actually only making 265KW/440NM on the wheels This would possibly explain why I only manage low 13`s on the 400m?>??? Needless to say I was a bit dissapointed with the results after the turbo/cooler upgrade, but I have invested some more money on the Woo - -this time 700cc Bosch injectors and complete 76mm exhaust system.....End results speak for themselves The bigger injectors allow for 2.1bar boost(30.4PSI) safely and resulted 315KW(422HP)/559NM torque on the wheels( dyno calibrated at new spec!!!) I am sure the 76mm exhaust also made a BIG contribition to the power gains - the turbo can now spool up much faster and the turbo lag between gears are a thing of the past

Man the car feels strong Topped out at 215KM/H on the clocks on 4th gear 7000rpm (rev limiter) in superquick time



Now to get the car on a propper dragstrip with good traction - -I am sure I will see a 12 second 400m pass - even with the 17" Toyo R888 semis

Will keep u guys update with times and vids ASAP>

PS - -still running the F18 box with LSD, and standard factory CV`s that have done 340 000KM - just hopes it all holds up

[PrecisionBoost]

The difference between 265KW (355hp) versus 295KW (395hp) is very significant.

I allways thought your numbers were off by a significant margin... your ET's at the drag strip were not making sense with the old 295KW numbers.

At 265KW/355hp you should have been able to manage something in the range of 12.8 and 178km/h

You managed 13.28 and 182 km/h so I have to assume that traction is definitly an issue off the line.... but your trap speed is very close to what the calculator shows.

At 422hp your calculated ET should drop to 11.0 and 210 km/h

So I'm going to guess your going to not only break into the 12's..... you may even manage a high 11 with your Toyo 888's

I bet you hit 215km/h right at the end of your run.

[Nubaroo]

Thanks bud will keep u posted

[Big Jeff]

would love to see a video of your next drag

[Nubaroo]

SHIT!!! - was playing around with a Lexus 250 last night on 1 bar boost....launched the Woo off the traffic light...shifted to second and GRRRRRR KLUCK KLUCK KLUCK!!! Turns out the engine/gearbox mount that "cradels" around the gearbox had become loose on the firewall side of the motor. This resulted in the mounting snapping off completely...the engine dropping on the right hand side because of this and the CV joint on the gearbox side pulling apart completely. I also saw some engine coolant trailing behind the car once stopped Repair should not be too costly - have CV joint redone and serviced with new grease and boots, have engine mount aluminium welded and USE THREADLOCK ON THE GEARBOX MOUNTING BOLTS!!! As for the coolant issue this could be anything from a broken radiator to a waterpipe come loose or tear??? Will post pics later

I should have seen this coming though - the last month or so I notised the gearlever bouncing forward/backward by about 1/2 inch when just cruising normally, and the gearshifts was not too smooth alsmost like the linkages had to be re-aligned, almost like the engine had tilted slightly...!

[Nubaroo]

Could not get a new gearbox mount/bracket today from our local Daewoo supplier - 8 weeks to order one in @ R 580.00. Had the broken one alluminium welded and it seems good as new. However I noticed that the M8 holes on the bracket/cradel have grown to approx 10mm - which tell me these bolts were loose for some time. So I refitted it with M8 bolts and slightly bigger washers, and used locktite/threadlock on all the mounting bolts. Tomorrow I will pick up the reconditioned driveshaft, replace the broken water hose and I should be mobile again