Turboing My 1.6 DOHC Lanos

[daewhorider]

Well its turbo time for my lanos and I was wondering what is a safe amount of boost to run in the 1.6 DOHC. Im buying a TD04 turbo along with various things like a fuel pressure regulator, manual boost controller, and a boost guage. What should i expect to gain out of it? Im doing this all for one thousand dollars. I removed my first cat and when we are doing the welding im moving it behing my second one. Finally do you guys think my transmission wil be able to handle it, its automatic. Any help appreciated. Big thanks to ubuyau your how-to really got me inspired to do this.

[AntDX316]

dont get a fuel pressure regulator and a manual boost controller

buy a real quality big intercooler instead

u should do research on ur transmission to see how much torque it can hold

[PrecisionBoost]

I'd disagree with Ant DX316.... the intercooler should be your least concerning part..... some turbo engines ( like the C20GET ) aren't even intercooled.

I really don't like the word "BIG" when people describe intercoolers.... it's possible to go too big and actually hurt your performance ( since there is a pressure drop as you go accross an intercooler.... the larger the intercooler the higher the pressure drop )


You will need a check valve like the "missing link" I mentioned in another post in order to keep your ECU from throwing codes ( MAP sensor does not want to see boost ).

You will ideally need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR).... not just a plain adjustable regulator

This will give you a "rough" tune and bring the fuel pressure up (and therefore inject more fuel ) when boost is added.

You could go with injectors from a Nubira..... not sure how much larger the stock Lanos/Nubira are.... but they may not be needed... you might be fine with the Lanos injectors.

Ideally you want to change your spark plugs to be one step "colder"..... if you give me the NGK part number for the Lanos I can tell you which ones to get to go one step cooler.

Another thing you might want to consider is Methanol/Water injection..... which can be done for less than a couple hundred dollars.

The Meth/Water injection will drasicly improve your engines ability to run boost.... it effectively increases the octane level of your fuel system.... so it will stop detonation if used correctly.


I have no idea what your automatic will handle but it will definitly be a limiting factor...... personally I wouldn't exceed 5psi for a start.

Auto trannys are pretty cheap..... so if it fees good with 5psi and the tranny holds up for a month or two you could probably jump up to 7 or 8 psi which will make a significant difference in power.

Generally speaking you can basicly take your current horsepower and calulate what it will be with a turbo by the following formula:

Naturally aspirated horsepower X ( 14.7 + boost ) / 14.7 = new horspower

This really is not that accurate but it will give you a ball park.

Natural atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI...... so if you run 5 psi then your actually geting 19.7 PSI of absolute pressure.

If you have 1.6L @ 14.7psi (atmospheric... no boost ) then with 5 psi your going to get 1.6L X ( 14.7 + boost ) / 14.7


So... if your making about 105hp at the crank right now you can expect roughly 140hp with 5psi

This is because you are no longer stuffing just 1.6L of air/fuel into the combustion chambers.... your stuffing in about 2.14L of air/fuel


So in short.... 5psi on the 1.6L will feel about the same as it would if you dropped in a 2.2L Leganza engine.

[daewhorider]

I'd disagree with Ant DX316.... the intercooler should be your least concerning part..... some turbo engines ( like the C20GET ) aren't even intercooled.

I really don't like the word "BIG" when people describe intercoolers.... it's possible to go too big and actually hurt your performance ( since there is a pressure drop as you go accross an intercooler.... the larger the intercooler the higher the pressure drop )


You will need a check valve like the "missing link" I mentioned in another post in order to keep your ECU from throwing codes ( MAP sensor does not want to see boost ).

You will ideally need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR).... not just a plain adjustable regulator

This will give you a "rough" tune and bring the fuel pressure up (and therefore inject more fuel ) when boost is added.

You could go with injectors from a Nubira..... not sure how much larger the stock Lanos/Nubira are.... but they may not be needed... you might be fine with the Lanos injectors.

Ideally you want to change your spark plugs to be one step "colder"..... if you give me the NGK part number for the Lanos I can tell you which ones to get to go one step cooler.

Another thing you might want to consider is Methanol/Water injection..... which can be done for less than a couple hundred dollars.

The Meth/Water injection will drasicly improve your engines ability to run boost.... it effectively increases the octane level of your fuel system.... so it will stop detonation if used correctly.


I have no idea what your automatic will handle but it will definitly be a limiting factor...... personally I wouldn't exceed 5psi for a start.

Auto trannys are pretty cheap..... so if it fees good with 5psi and the tranny holds up for a month or two you could probably jump up to 7 or 8 psi which will make a significant difference in power.

Generally speaking you can basicly take your current horsepower and calulate what it will be with a turbo by the following formula:

Naturally aspirated horsepower X ( 14.7 + boost ) / 14.7 = new horspower

This really is not that accurate but it will give you a ball park.

Natural atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSI...... so if you run 5 psi then your actually geting 19.7 PSI of absolute pressure.

If you have 1.6L @ 14.7psi (atmospheric... no boost ) then with 5 psi your going to get 1.6L X ( 14.7 + boost ) / 14.7


So... if your making about 105hp at the crank right now you can expect roughly 140hp with 5psi

This is because you are no longer stuffing just 1.6L of air/fuel into the combustion chambers.... your stuffing in about 2.14L of air/fuel


So in short.... 5psi on the 1.6L will feel about the same as it would if you dropped in a 2.2L Leganza engine.

I appreciate you guys helping me out. I really like that formula you gave me and i also agree what you said about the intercooler being least of worries, i will have it intercooled but only a very small one. I think im going to try going with 8 psi and try to work my way up to ten without detonation and transmission slip. And well...... if my transmission goes out it gives me a perfect reason to do a trans swap to a manual one. My Cat is hollowed out however and i am pretty sure that has given me a horsepower boost. So my guess is that im at 115 hp. so 115+24.7/14.7 was 193 which is only 7 hp under my goal. Eventually when i Have more cash im going to look at better pistons crank and rods that way i can run more boost. For now i would be more than satisfied with 193 hp. I was actually going to buy an SRT-4 but i decided i like my car too much and i couldnt just give it up for 1500 dollars. Now I just want to hand people with neons their asses for thinking my car sucks plus my goal has always been for the daewoo to slam me into my seat without having to be rear ended. Lol.

[PrecisionBoost]

Ya.... not too sure about 10psi.... might be a bit high for the stock components..... it's hard to say.... it really depends on how carefull you are.

If 10psi is your goal you will definitly need the METH/Water injection ( coolingmist makes some decent kits..... http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/coolingmi ... omZQQ_mdoZ )

At 10psi you might need something to smooth out your Air fuel curve..... a rising rate fuel pressure regulator is a "rough" fuel adjustment... the more power you make the more carefull you have to be with the fuel system.

So.... you might want to start looking around for a cheap piggy back or digital FMU ( like the Apexi SAFC ).

I also wonder if the stock fuel pump will be able to keep up..... it's hard to say..... I know Walboro's Chevrolet Cyclone fuel pump is a direct drop in for the Pontiac Lemans (same chassis as Lanos) so it might work on a Lanos.... but I don't know for sure.

What turbo do you plan to use?

Someone was selling a T25 in the classified section really cheap ( $100 ??? )..... it would easily handle 10psi and have good spool up characteristics.

With the 2.0L the T25 really starts to get out of it's efficent area around 12psi..... so on the 1.6L it should be good to roughly 15psi


If I were you I would start out around 5psi and work up carefully...... the Lanos is really quite light..... so even with 140hp your going to be pretty damned quick.

[daewhorider]

Turbo

Thats what i plan on using. I don't really understand what that is, that meth alchohol thing is it used to further cool the intake air in order to keep things a little colder? I think you are right about the piggy back i was going to look into them and i was looking at the emanage but dont know how i will make it work and when i will have the money for it considering that it costs half of my turbo project.

[daewoomofo]

if your car is an auto you have the 4t40e tranny. as long as you dont drive "balls out" all day every day you should have no problems. its rated at 325 ft lbs of torque, so you should be golden for a while as long as your not an ass all of the time

[daewhorider]

if your car is an auto you have the 4t40e tranny. as long as you dont drive "balls out" all day every day you should have no problems. its rated at 325 ft lbs of torque, so you should be golden for a while as long as your not an ass all of the time

Thats actually really good to hear, I can't drive balls out anymore due to the fact that I might have my licence suspended soon so now im your everyday grandma driver......unless ive done an upgrade and i want to play with it