what oil to use
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what oil to use
Hey every body, this question is specific for turbo owners.
My nubira with the 10w30, when I run for a wild boosting the turbo the oil get to liquid and I loose all pressure of the oil. I will change to 10w40 full synthetic , hopefully this will resolve this problem.
What do you use or what do you recommend?
My nubira with the 10w30, when I run for a wild boosting the turbo the oil get to liquid and I loose all pressure of the oil. I will change to 10w40 full synthetic , hopefully this will resolve this problem.
What do you use or what do you recommend?
- PrecisionBoost
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- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
AMSOIL is good.... so are Mobile 1 and ELF synthetic
You will always see a difference in oil pressure as it heats up.... sometimes a restrictor in the turbo feed line is needed (especially in a ball bearing design )
The biggest factor in the oil pressure is the bearing clearances..... once the oil warms up it will flow quicker and create less restriction.
Another thing that helps is an external oil cooler to keep the temperature of the oil consistent.
What oil pressure do you see at start up and when it's warm?
You will always see a difference in oil pressure as it heats up.... sometimes a restrictor in the turbo feed line is needed (especially in a ball bearing design )
The biggest factor in the oil pressure is the bearing clearances..... once the oil warms up it will flow quicker and create less restriction.
Another thing that helps is an external oil cooler to keep the temperature of the oil consistent.
What oil pressure do you see at start up and when it's warm?
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I was digging around for some oil info and came across this really good site... learned a few things
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Before yesterday (first official boost) the lowest was 2 yesterday reached 0 and then I notice the light. if I increase the rev. to 1100 I get pressure again. A cooler will be an option in the future. Car run one week w/o any oil problem so I will change it to syntetic now, and see what happend.
And basically all of you use 10w40...
And basically all of you use 10w40...
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I have had similar issues..... oil works great for a while then I start getting lower pressure ( never as low as yours )
In my case I believe that it's due to fuel in the oil because the car runs so rich at idle.
That is to say that my engine management system is unable to idle the car at anything better than 11:1 with constant dips under 10:1
I was considering a 15W50 because of the fact that the car is only driven in the summer so I don't have to worry about lower temperatures, but now after reading that article I am thinking about other options.
Changing the viscosity/weight probably won't help me until such time as I get rid of the rich fuel problems.
Perhaps you are also running rich at idle.
When I change my oil I smell it.... you can tell right away that the color is off and you can smell the fuel.
Eventually this will hurt my engine.... fuel in the oil is bad... so I still feel I have no choice but to go with multiple injectors or change the engine management system to give me more control.
In my case I believe that it's due to fuel in the oil because the car runs so rich at idle.
That is to say that my engine management system is unable to idle the car at anything better than 11:1 with constant dips under 10:1
I was considering a 15W50 because of the fact that the car is only driven in the summer so I don't have to worry about lower temperatures, but now after reading that article I am thinking about other options.
Changing the viscosity/weight probably won't help me until such time as I get rid of the rich fuel problems.
Perhaps you are also running rich at idle.
When I change my oil I smell it.... you can tell right away that the color is off and you can smell the fuel.
Eventually this will hurt my engine.... fuel in the oil is bad... so I still feel I have no choice but to go with multiple injectors or change the engine management system to give me more control.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
I change the oil today onely 2.5 ¼ came out not that good he! But Im not worry about that now, the car get over het las week and also have a turbo oil line like when we start it first.
So let see how it react with the synthetic. Pressure was 20 I keep the car for 15 min more or less and was fine. never drop. So I need to ride it tomorrow to check if all is fine now.
any way how often do you guys recommend to change it.
So let see how it react with the synthetic. Pressure was 20 I keep the car for 15 min more or less and was fine. never drop. So I need to ride it tomorrow to check if all is fine now.
any way how often do you guys recommend to change it.
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
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- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Synthetic is usually the best.... it usually is more stable and is capable of taking the higher heat created in a turbo vehicle.
Usually changing to synthetic will also help free up a little bit of horsepower/torque.
As far as changing the oil..... I have been swapping it out every month or two because of my issues with the engine management.
If I didn't have this issue with tons of fuel at idle I would probably change it once or twice a year..... but I only drive it during the summer and it's a pure performance vehicle for me as opposed to a daily driver.
That is to say that it never gets driven "nicely"..... every time it comes out the car is going to be pushed to the maximum for an hour or two.
You might say that I mange to put on a week's worth of driving in on night as I usually go through 3/4 of a tank in those two hours of "having fun"
Usually changing to synthetic will also help free up a little bit of horsepower/torque.
As far as changing the oil..... I have been swapping it out every month or two because of my issues with the engine management.
If I didn't have this issue with tons of fuel at idle I would probably change it once or twice a year..... but I only drive it during the summer and it's a pure performance vehicle for me as opposed to a daily driver.
That is to say that it never gets driven "nicely"..... every time it comes out the car is going to be pushed to the maximum for an hour or two.
You might say that I mange to put on a week's worth of driving in on night as I usually go through 3/4 of a tank in those two hours of "having fun"
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
I change my amsoil every 4000-5000km depending on how hard I've been driving. The bottle says you can go for 10,000 or more, but I don't want to risk it.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit