Lanos rear non-abs wheel bearing

[hap_suu]

Hello,

I start to have that annoying engine-like sound from the rear of the car above 40 mph. When we lift and spin the rear tires one of them has the serial clicking sound. (I have to almost stick my ear to the tire to hear it.) I think the bearing has to be changed. When I read the repair manual I realized that the outer races of both inner and outer bearings are pressed to the drum. My question is how hard it is to remove (and then install) the pressed bearing races without machine power? I bought the tools J-36791 and KM-266-A.

Thank you very much.

P.S. The search utility of the forum is not working. It returns "too many common words" error no matter what you enter.

[wolfsreign]

Well lets start this off as, I have never done rear bearings, but I would beat 99% like the front. When me and my dad do races and such/bearings, we never use speacial tools. Funny I know, what we do, is looking at the drum/disc at the axle side (inside part) you can see the races/bearings.
Accoring to my memory, the races are the move-y ones, those, you can usually pull right off. The bearings, (ones that are pressed) are yes in there.
What I do, is flip it over, to where ur now looking at the outside, take a block of wood, or something to support the disc/drum up on one side so it rest on an angle like: /
Then use a hammer or block of wood to bang/hit a screwdriver or flat punch, ON THE EDGE OF THE BREAING, NEAR THE INSIDE.
Yes this is bad idea, as if you miss could ding the resting spot of the bearing on the disc/drum. But don't carefully, it pops right out. and since its a circle, you have to hit it on multiple places, like up, down, left, right, 1/8 upright, 5/8downleft, etc..

Then to press the new bearings in, I use a plastic, or wood mallet (so it doesn't scar the metal) and LIGHTLY tap it in to start, you want it to sit and rest even.
Then use block of wood or hard plastic to put on top and tap it flush with the edge, thento make it hit the bottom, to final resting, I use a socket. Like the HUGEEEEE socket set. Ones that are >1 hahaha. Like 1 1/4 etc. And you flip it to where the rachet square is where ull use ur hammer. Then you lghtly, again, tap/hit it to the bottom.

All said and done. Not to pack the race with grease. That is the only special tool. You spin it open, put it in, spin it shut, use a grease gun to put the grease in it. Pump until the grease starts coming through all over.
Some unexp stop once they see grease, thinking its too much, no such thing as too much.
So you make sure its coming out ALL around. Then I usually roll it against my palm to move the wheels alittle..

Method two, if you don't want to get or buy the packer, is the "bang against the palm". Basically put butt load of grease on ur palm, and bang the race against ur palm to pack/push the grease into it. Rotate the race to get it all in.

If there's a bearing on the spindle, replace with the new one, usually just a pull off, and push on new.

Set the race on the spindle.. Put the drum/disc back one, and push it on slowly to make sure everything fits snugly.

Tighten the end nut not tight but finger tight, and spin the disc. It shouldn't spin that good, then loosen it justttt alittle, spin, it should be able to wiggle alittle, then tighten the nut about half way between the two, and test it. You don't want it to wiggle, but want it to spin super free.
Once set, apply cottor pin and nut cap, or vise versa.

Good to go.
~wolf (mobile)


P.s. Just realised.. I had them backwards. Bearings are the move-y things and races are the seats. Got them mixed up from my overhaul. Sorry. Too much work on my phone to redo the words.

[MMamdouh]

this is exactly how we do it here

Tip: can use the ring of the old bearing to press the new ring... just put the old ring above the new ring and use a hammer... this way you will have a perfect matching object to transfer the impact of the hammer to the new ring... but that is if you don't have one of them huge sockets

MMamdouh

[wolfsreign]

this is exactly how we do it here

Tip: can use the ring of the old bearing to press the new ring... just put the old ring above the new ring and use a hammer... this way you will have a perfect matching object to transfer the impact of the hammer to the new ring... but that is if you don't have one of them huge sockets

MMamdouh

+1 to you. i totally forgot about that. haha.
~wolf

[hap_suu]

Thanks for the info. I will work on it this weekend and will keep you posted.

[wolfsreign]

good luck..
*waits*
any pics to arouse my optical nerves??
~wolf

[hap_suu]

Disclaimer: I am not a professional mechanic. The pictures and descriptions below are NOT to advise or to suggest to other people how to repair their cars. They are merely illustrations of what I did to my car.

My friend and I fixed my left rear bearing yesterday. Just for the sake of experience, we tried to remove the racer using the methods decribed in the other threads above. But, I guess my craftsmanship is not advanced enough. We gave up after trying for 10 minutes. Later, we used the KM-266-A tool that I bought on ebay for $20. It took us two minutes to remove and to install both the inner and outer racers.

Here are a couple of pictures:

pict1.jpg

The tool comes with two flat metal pieces to remove the inner and outer racers

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pict2.jpg

We positioned the flat piece against the racer

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pict3.jpg

and hammered it out.

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[hap_suu]

...continued from the above post.

pict4.jpg

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pict5.jpg

The installer is a chunk of metal that fits the spindle hole.

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pict6.jpg

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[wolfsreign]

sweeeeet. that tools makes everything ive ever done without look like useless time. hahaha.
nicely done. exactly how it should be. great job.

(to let you know, the hammer thing looks like this:
dont EVER try to pry it out:

along with the 1st pic, u just want to tap it out,hopefully without hitting the rotor inside walls.

to put in the new one, just like you use the chuck tool, use the old racer and have them face the same way, and tap it in opposite sides movie in a circle ie: top, bottom, top right, bottom left etc..

ALWAYS USE A OR RUBBER/PLASTIC HAMMER )

~wolf

[chriscomputers]

I was hoping someone here could help me with a paranoia I have about my rear wheel bearings. I recently changed mine on my 99 lanos and want to know if I tightened the bearing nut enough. What I did was tightened the nut down snugly until the wheel spun but with a little bit of resistance. I then checked for play by shaking the hub back and forth and found none. I then backed the nut off by one tooth so I could put in the cotter pin that holds the nut in place and now the wheel spins very freely to where there seems to be no resistance at all. Is this the correct way to do it or should there still be some resistance there? I freaks me out to have something on a car that you don't actually tighten down all the way.

[Daniel]

I was hoping someone here could help me with a paranoia I have about my rear wheel bearings. I recently changed mine on my 99 lanos and want to know if I tightened the bearing nut enough. What I did was tightened the nut down snugly until the wheel spun but with a little bit of resistance. I then checked for play by shaking the hub back and forth and found none. I then backed the nut off by one tooth so I could put in the cotter pin that holds the nut in place and now the wheel spins very freely to where there seems to be no resistance at all. Is this the correct way to do it or should there still be some resistance there? I freaks me out to have something on a car that you don't actually tighten down all the way.

That's seems correct.
Manual ask for:

Tighten at 25Nm
Unscrew 180° (half a turn)
Tighten at 2Nm.

(personnal note: since 2Nm is a very low torque I use to snug the nut until I can still move the washer with no much effort with a screwdriver blade, then fit the cotter pin in nearest hole)
Wheel must be free to spin without play.

Hope it helps,

[chriscomputers]

Thank you for your response. I now have one other small issue with the tightening of the wheel bearings. I had to buy new castle nuts since my old ones had stripped out. The new castle nuts I bought do not have as many openings in the top to fit through the cotter pin. Because of this I have two options. Tighten the nut down to get rid of all play in the bearing but feel a little bit of friction when spinning the wheel(I have to use socket wrench to tighten cause it is tighter than hand tight) or back off one tooth on the nut to where I can feel a very small amount of play when shaking the wheel but it moves much more freely when spun. Which is the better option?

[Daniel]

Friction = heat. Avoid it.
Tighten nut by hand on socket, back off to nearest hole. then buy correct one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Daewoo-lanos-20 ... 0774459796 .
Oh BTW don't have you two perpendicular holes in axle to choose a better fit?

[chriscomputers]

I didn't realize there were two holes in the spindle to choose from. I was just using the hole that the original pin was in. I will have to check that out. Thank you.