wheel bearings
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daewoomofo
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yeah i know, ive actually got the bearings, i just need to actually get around to doing it. Gene (uncle) has a press and all of that fun shit, its just a matter of when he has time, if i dont take it some where to get them done.
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yeah i cant type, so what big freaking deal!
Hi mofo,
I haven't yet do this work but looking at the service manual it seems not to be so difficult task. You have only once chance to do it right the first time otherwise you'll end with a worn new bearing.
If you don't have a press there is the hard way to do it but you need a large vice, some lenght of big threated rod & nuts, hammer, deepfreezer,...
Here is a generic "how-to" from a french site. Maybe the pics will let you make the right decision
.
http://www.oscaro.com/redactionnel/roul ... lement.asp . Sorry it's in french.
Daniel
Edit: BTW it took over two hours to the well trained Rémi to do it without a press.
I haven't yet do this work but looking at the service manual it seems not to be so difficult task. You have only once chance to do it right the first time otherwise you'll end with a worn new bearing.
If you don't have a press there is the hard way to do it but you need a large vice, some lenght of big threated rod & nuts, hammer, deepfreezer,...
Here is a generic "how-to" from a french site. Maybe the pics will let you make the right decision
.http://www.oscaro.com/redactionnel/roul ... lement.asp . Sorry it's in french.
Daniel
Edit: BTW it took over two hours to the well trained Rémi to do it without a press.
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daewooluvr
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I believe you only need to pack the rear ones since the fronts are sealed. I've only done the rear bearings before. I'd never mess with doing the fronts myself.daewoomofo wrote:thats a possablity (taking it to have them press them in) . stupid question.... i have to pack the bearings with grease befor installing them right? my future uncly has a hotrod shop, he said he would help me do them bit im still leary. what all did you do shaun? can i kinda get a walk through? thanks for the advice every one, i really do appreciate it!
I stand by my previous statement
it's a pain in the ass so let a shop do it while you sit back and enjoy a cold one Very Happy
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Jesse18873
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daewoomofo
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when your wheel bearigs are going you will hear a loud humming sound from the wheel that the bearings are going. as you go faster so will the humming sound. im not sure what your popping sound is either, but brakes are a vital part of any car so ge that looked at soon. you dont want to be driving along, hit your brakes, hear a "pop" and then you dont have any brakes.... do you?
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yeah i cant type, so what big freaking deal!
Easiest way to know if your wheel bearings are ok, are by jacking the car up, or putting it on stands, or on a lift, and shaking the wheel top and bottom, forward and back, or from each side, forward and back. By forward and back i mean, left hand pulls, right hand pushes, then vise versa a few times. If the actual wheel rocks and the strut doesnt move, you need it sorted badly. Other than that, yeah, just that humming sound.
Popping from the front? Check all the bushes and the strut top.
Popping from the front? Check all the bushes and the strut top.
SAZ
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daewoomofo
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OK... just replaced my front and rear bearings yesterday so my feedback might be very helpful here:
symptoms:
most annoying humming sound that you can hear once you go up to 80KPH... turning A/C off and going to neutral doesn't affect the sound... it is their as long as the car is moving and it is at 80KPH or more... and the more you speed the louder it gets
my checkup:
lifted each and every wheel and spun it with hand then put my ear against fender to hear the shudder if any... rear ones made low noise when spun... front are silent
mechanic checkup:
did the same as i did for the rear... but for the front he held the strut with his hand to feel any roughness in rotation and yes... their was too much roughness and the front needed replacement as well
parts:
bought a set of SKF bearings for the front and...ummmm.... forgot its name but got the box, it is German made and came with rear seal, fastening bolt, lock and the split pin and grease... 35.00USD for the front set, 18.50USD for the rear
work:
front strut has to come off completely to be transferred to the shop where a press exist... never went to the shop but it was some 30 minutes till i got my struts back with new bearings pressed in then every thing was put back on again
rear was taken off... outer ring of both small and big bearing were removed by a hammer and a strong screw driver, new rings were gently hammered in with an appropriate sized socket head... bearings greased well then put into place... seal was put on then the whole thing was reassembled again
labor:
18.50USD including press fee
MMamdouh
symptoms:
most annoying humming sound that you can hear once you go up to 80KPH... turning A/C off and going to neutral doesn't affect the sound... it is their as long as the car is moving and it is at 80KPH or more... and the more you speed the louder it gets
my checkup:
lifted each and every wheel and spun it with hand then put my ear against fender to hear the shudder if any... rear ones made low noise when spun... front are silent
mechanic checkup:
did the same as i did for the rear... but for the front he held the strut with his hand to feel any roughness in rotation and yes... their was too much roughness and the front needed replacement as well
parts:
bought a set of SKF bearings for the front and...ummmm.... forgot its name but got the box, it is German made and came with rear seal, fastening bolt, lock and the split pin and grease... 35.00USD for the front set, 18.50USD for the rear
work:
front strut has to come off completely to be transferred to the shop where a press exist... never went to the shop but it was some 30 minutes till i got my struts back with new bearings pressed in then every thing was put back on again
rear was taken off... outer ring of both small and big bearing were removed by a hammer and a strong screw driver, new rings were gently hammered in with an appropriate sized socket head... bearings greased well then put into place... seal was put on then the whole thing was reassembled again
labor:
18.50USD including press fee
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
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daewoomofo
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no idea... maybe the translation process messed up the pic links or so
BTW found out that i got CFG bearings for the rear... no references on the internet whatsoever
MMamdouh
BTW found out that i got CFG bearings for the rear... no references on the internet whatsoever
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Mofo,
I have tried a free translation from the page.
Be aware that this might not directly apply to our Woo. It's a generic "on the field" procedure.
"A tired wheel bearing is making "rourourourourou" in the turns. But it is quiet in a straight line. This is in this way can be diagnosed this evil. It remains then to try to determine if it is a rolling forward or backward, right or left. And then, only one method: to listen. The best plan is to try to sit at different places in the car to determine where the loudest. The penalty in case of error: the replacement of a rotation still good and therefore to start again ... To point the guilty, he must often drive faster than 70 km / h. The tests will therefore be on national or highway. Simulate of abrupt changes lead to the right and then left. Which is the loudest. If it is turning to the right, it means that the rotation left, support, expresses the growl. So he is worn and good to replace. And vice versa, of course ...
Pic1: A kit bearings consists of new pieces sealed in cellophane or wrapped in paper bold, and any parts to replace: a new nut here and a big "ring".
Pic2: The day before replacement, place the bearing still packed in the freezer. The colder, the easier it is to fit in its housing.
Pic3: Start wherever possible (if the hole in the rim permitting) by off the big central nut. It usually takes a key of good quality (30 to 36 depending on the model of self) and an extension of a good metre. And this before lifting the car (even punishment for the wheel nuts for that matter).
Pic4: Raise the car. Remove the wheel and brake caliper.
Pic5: Hang the caliper in the tunnel wheel to avoid letting it hang over the end of the pipe (not good at all!).
Pic6: If you have not thought before, turn the screw(s) that hold the disc in place (this is easier if a fellow brakes, but before the caliper is removed. Normally, they are hardly tight as they are not used to much ... use this as the key to supporting the side opposite the hub, thus limiting the rotation of the disc.
Pic7: indeed, in the other direction as here, the disc will have a strong tendency to turn, driven by the key.
Pic8: Before attacking the nut blocking the direction tie rod, carefully brush threads with a wire brush. This in order to remove any dirt that tends to block the nut and thus add resistant torque.
Pic9: A small shot of WD-40 is even recommended.
Pic10: But despite all these precautions, sometimes the cone of the ball joint falls off under the effect of loosening it. The key then turns free and we can neither tighten nor loosen. The only trick is then to strengthen the cone and to hold it tight with good grip pliers.
Pic11: A ball joint cone well glued requires a special removing tool. This tool is as ordinary Chinese for less than 20USD at local hardware shop.
Pic12: Normally, we go out the central hub to the press. But we may very well work more “exotic” hitting on a good old tube diameter with a hammer.
Pic13: The hub fate, but a bearing part remains. It will be necessary to extract it and it's not so easy...
Pic14: Extract the "ring" with a small screwdriver. It has a small flat which greatly facilitates the work.
Pic15: Remember to clean all around.
Pic16: Look at the assembly: the rocket is trapped between a large piece of steel pipe with a diameter slightly lower than the bearing. On the right, there are a small hold because the rocket is irregularly shaped and extraction of bearing is not scheduled by engineers who designed this assembly (to believe they must think that one tosses the car when a wheel bearing is cooked ...). Use a good quality steel vice (not cast iron) and strike the cylinder pusher with another cylinder and a respectable size hammer while someone else greenhouse vice. It is coming, but not easily!
Pic17: It was tight but it was eventually out anyway. No damage here, we will be able to fit the new bearing.
Pic18: Once the ring is sufficiently raised to have an grip, place the extractor. Here an low cast 3 claws Chinese extractor, but it makes it’s job.
Pic19: Than begins reassembly. After verifying that everything is clean, coat grease generously to facilitate the introduction. Car wheel bearings are mounted VERY tight ...
Pic20: At the beginning, it is quite easy to set the rocket and bearing between the jaws of the vise and tighten. Be carefull that the assembly stays “in-line”.
Pic21: But it's worse when the vise is coming to stop ... Here, we must bring the old bearings to grow again in the bottom of housing without any damage.
Pic22: Job done!
Pic23: The "ring" is placed by hand without much difficulty. It only remains to refit the hub ...
Pic24: We will change of method and use a screw press. A good big piece of rod 16, and a stack of washers which maintains the internal ring in place. The ideal is to use the old rings necessarily of good internal diameter. This ring is placed at the location pointed. CAUTION: If at this stage, following a bad manip (forgetting the puck bracing for example), you remove the internal brace, the bearing is trash ...
Pic25: On greenhouse nut, while tapping the rocket to get it back. This assembly is very tight, and we must exert a considerable force of several tons to achieve its ends. When the gavel sounds "full" on the rocket, it says that the hub is fully engaged. IT IS A NO GO TO DIRECTLY HAMMER EXTERNAL OR INTERNAL BRACE BEARING ...
Pic26: Et voila! Done. But without a hydraulic press and garage tools, this manipulation will take more than 2 hours and still has mobilized many big tools and not necessarily currents (vise, torch, extractors, etc.
Pic27: Last detail, by repositioning the brake disc, do not tighten much these small screws. The disc is attached to the wheel through the 4 large bolts rather than the 2 small screws."
All syntax & grammatical mistakes are copyrighted
Daniel
I have tried a free translation from the page.
Be aware that this might not directly apply to our Woo. It's a generic "on the field" procedure.
"A tired wheel bearing is making "rourourourourou" in the turns. But it is quiet in a straight line. This is in this way can be diagnosed this evil. It remains then to try to determine if it is a rolling forward or backward, right or left. And then, only one method: to listen. The best plan is to try to sit at different places in the car to determine where the loudest. The penalty in case of error: the replacement of a rotation still good and therefore to start again ... To point the guilty, he must often drive faster than 70 km / h. The tests will therefore be on national or highway. Simulate of abrupt changes lead to the right and then left. Which is the loudest. If it is turning to the right, it means that the rotation left, support, expresses the growl. So he is worn and good to replace. And vice versa, of course ...
Pic1: A kit bearings consists of new pieces sealed in cellophane or wrapped in paper bold, and any parts to replace: a new nut here and a big "ring".
Pic2: The day before replacement, place the bearing still packed in the freezer. The colder, the easier it is to fit in its housing.
Pic3: Start wherever possible (if the hole in the rim permitting) by off the big central nut. It usually takes a key of good quality (30 to 36 depending on the model of self) and an extension of a good metre. And this before lifting the car (even punishment for the wheel nuts for that matter).
Pic4: Raise the car. Remove the wheel and brake caliper.
Pic5: Hang the caliper in the tunnel wheel to avoid letting it hang over the end of the pipe (not good at all!).
Pic6: If you have not thought before, turn the screw(s) that hold the disc in place (this is easier if a fellow brakes, but before the caliper is removed
. Normally, they are hardly tight as they are not used to much ... use this as the key to supporting the side opposite the hub, thus limiting the rotation of the disc.Pic7: indeed, in the other direction as here, the disc will have a strong tendency to turn, driven by the key.
Pic8: Before attacking the nut blocking the direction tie rod, carefully brush threads with a wire brush. This in order to remove any dirt that tends to block the nut and thus add resistant torque.
Pic9: A small shot of WD-40 is even recommended.
Pic10: But despite all these precautions, sometimes the cone of the ball joint falls off under the effect of loosening it. The key then turns free and we can neither tighten nor loosen. The only trick is then to strengthen the cone and to hold it tight with good grip pliers.
Pic11: A ball joint cone well glued requires a special removing tool. This tool is as ordinary Chinese for less than 20USD at local hardware shop.
Pic12: Normally, we go out the central hub to the press. But we may very well work more “exotic” hitting on a good old tube diameter with a hammer.
Pic13: The hub fate, but a bearing part remains. It will be necessary to extract it and it's not so easy...
Pic14: Extract the "ring" with a small screwdriver. It has a small flat which greatly facilitates the work.
Pic15: Remember to clean all around.
Pic16: Look at the assembly: the rocket is trapped between a large piece of steel pipe with a diameter slightly lower than the bearing. On the right, there are a small hold because the rocket is irregularly shaped and extraction of bearing is not scheduled by engineers who designed this assembly (to believe they must think that one tosses the car when a wheel bearing is cooked ...). Use a good quality steel vice (not cast iron) and strike the cylinder pusher with another cylinder and a respectable size hammer while someone else greenhouse vice. It is coming, but not easily!
Pic17: It was tight but it was eventually out anyway. No damage here, we will be able to fit the new bearing.
Pic18: Once the ring is sufficiently raised to have an grip, place the extractor. Here an low cast 3 claws Chinese extractor, but it makes it’s job.
Pic19: Than begins reassembly. After verifying that everything is clean, coat grease generously to facilitate the introduction. Car wheel bearings are mounted VERY tight ...
Pic20: At the beginning, it is quite easy to set the rocket and bearing between the jaws of the vise and tighten. Be carefull that the assembly stays “in-line”.
Pic21: But it's worse when the vise is coming to stop ... Here, we must bring the old bearings to grow again in the bottom of housing without any damage.
Pic22: Job done!
Pic23: The "ring" is placed by hand without much difficulty. It only remains to refit the hub ...
Pic24: We will change of method and use a screw press. A good big piece of rod 16, and a stack of washers which maintains the internal ring in place. The ideal is to use the old rings necessarily of good internal diameter. This ring is placed at the location pointed. CAUTION: If at this stage, following a bad manip (forgetting the puck bracing for example), you remove the internal brace, the bearing is trash ...
Pic25: On greenhouse nut, while tapping the rocket to get it back. This assembly is very tight, and we must exert a considerable force of several tons to achieve its ends. When the gavel sounds "full" on the rocket, it says that the hub is fully engaged. IT IS A NO GO TO DIRECTLY HAMMER EXTERNAL OR INTERNAL BRACE BEARING ...
Pic26: Et voila! Done. But without a hydraulic press and garage tools, this manipulation will take more than 2 hours and still has mobilized many big tools and not necessarily currents (vise, torch, extractors, etc.
Pic27: Last detail, by repositioning the brake disc, do not tighten much these small screws. The disc is attached to the wheel through the 4 large bolts rather than the 2 small screws."
All syntax & grammatical mistakes are copyrighted
Daniel
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daewoomofo
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