Daewoo Nubira Turbo from South Africa
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- Nubaroo
- Expert
- Posts: 387
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 7:35 am
- Location: South Africa - Chasing my 11sec 1/4 mile!!!
Oh yes sorry I forgot - the first dyno runs the tuner did not want to rev the car past 6000RPM as my rev limiter is factory set at 6500RPM - I think he was just too scared he would damage my motor!! Because of the piggy back ECU system I am running, the factory rev limiter of 6500rpm cannot by changed.....boohooo! Will move to a DICKTATOR ecu when I install forged internals early next year - then I can rev up to 7500rpm at least safely and maybe 20PSI boost!!??
- Nubaroo
- Expert
- Posts: 387
- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 7:35 am
- Location: South Africa - Chasing my 11sec 1/4 mile!!!
We have some importers here in South Africa so get this directly from them.
I checked the web and found a website - www.mecarm.com - perhaps you could mail them and find out if there is a distributor near you, or perhaps they can mail u one??
Like I said these are the best "standard local klutchkit" that I have used and they should last round about 50000KM and be able to handle 195KW wheelpower - provided you dont "abuse" it with too much "clutch slip" through the gears to maintain boost. I have done various 400m runs consecutively with about 30 mins between the runs and I have never had any problems with these kits. The plus side is that it is excellent for everyday driving - smoooooth!
I checked the web and found a website - www.mecarm.com - perhaps you could mail them and find out if there is a distributor near you, or perhaps they can mail u one??
Like I said these are the best "standard local klutchkit" that I have used and they should last round about 50000KM and be able to handle 195KW wheelpower - provided you dont "abuse" it with too much "clutch slip" through the gears to maintain boost. I have done various 400m runs consecutively with about 30 mins between the runs and I have never had any problems with these kits. The plus side is that it is excellent for everyday driving - smoooooth!
Thanks, I would appreciate it.Nubaroo wrote:I am still waitng to hear from the company that`s doing my engine mounts and control arm bushes....! - I will give you info as soon as I hear from them
HHAHAH yup, I know exactly how that goes............. they give you this really confused/shocked look as they fall behind in disbelief!Nubaroo wrote: You are right the power FEELS GOOD!! Especially when you kick butt toa aSubaru WRX STI or BMW M3 costing up to 6 times more than my old car LOL !!
I personally like when a car drives like this. The extra power (and fuel consumption) is only there when you want it.Nubaroo wrote: I really dont mind the low low-end torque - under 3500 she pulls like a normal 2litre car maybe a bit better even and when the turbo spools up you get a nice kick in the back - my wife does not like this too much... she get car sick from the power surging when we go to shops etc!! Now when I drive with her in the car I have to keep the revs under 3500rpm for a smooth ride LOL!! It`s really like when I drive normally and keep the revs down she is tame and not too lazy but when I want to race - I drop her down one or two gears, up goes the revs above 4000rpm and the power is there.
Labouring the car in low RPMs 5th gear I would say is probably harder on the motor than the transmission, because at that RPM you probably aren't putting out much more torque than stock. I didn't loose a specific gear on mine (like 3rd gear for example), it seemed to break one of the output gears. The first transmission died while I was in 3rd gear, and the 2nd trans died in 5th gear. I could still get into all my gears, but as soon as you move there was severe crunching and grinding sound. I'm 99% sure it was just the pure torque that caused it, not the RPM or any other factor.Nubaroo wrote: You are probably right with the low end torque being the culprit in breaking the gearbox - the other day the tuner that did the dyno on my car also said that I should avoid labouring the car 4th and 5th gears on low revs and rather keep the revs up on full throttle accellerations to put less starin on the tranny???
What gear and RPM did you loose your trannies???
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
I've also been thinking about installing a standalone, and if I do it will be the AEM EMS. I want to have full control over the engine, which a piggyback doesn't allow. It also has some useful features such as anti-lag and overboost fuel cut, and ofcourse being able to rev higher. These motors don't breath too well after 6000rpm, so I would like to get some cams (maybe custom), some P&P headwork (I have a very good source for this), and maybe a custom intake manifold.Nubaroo wrote:Oh yes sorry I forgot - the first dyno runs the tuner did not want to rev the car past 6000RPM as my rev limiter is factory set at 6500RPM - I think he was just too scared he would damage my motor!! Because of the piggy back ECU system I am running, the factory rev limiter of 6500rpm cannot by changed.....boohooo! Will move to a DICKTATOR ecu when I install forged internals early next year - then I can rev up to 7500rpm at least safely and maybe 20PSI boost!!??
I would like to try to rev maybe 500 rpm more on stock motor and see how it holds up.
Ofcourse this is purely ideas in my head right now, but we'll see how it goes.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
Re: Daewoo Nubira Turbo from South Africa
what body kit did you use?