My brake pedal has gone soft over the course of the last few months. It started to be worrying a couple of days ago when I noticed I was bottoming out and the pedal was hitting the bump stop on the firewall with anything but the lightest touches. The brakes still work, but gone are the typical Daewoo breaks that used to be one of my favorite features on the car. They'll stop me, but I have to apply way more pressure than I used to, I have to hold them for longer than I used to. They don't have the same bite as they used to, and on dry surfaces...it's impossible to get them to lock up, while a few months ago, I could lock them up any time I mashed the pedal marginally harder. My clutch is also kinda iffy lately. Occasionally, if I push in the clutch fairly quickly and shift into neutral, the car feels like it wants to stall...almost as if the clutch is still in light contact with the flywheel. Very strange, and kind of worrisome.
I'm pretty sure that my brake fluid is old and has absorbed some water into the system. I'm almost certain that I have air pockets in the system. I think it happened due to the fact that my brake reservoir cap can't close fully. On my green Daewoo, I can tighten it to my hearts desire, but on the red one, I get it tight and it just pops off of the threads and there is always a gap.
I'm not losing any fluid, and I don't think the master cylinder is to blame...
Basically, when I get some free time, I'm going to install the rear brake linings, the SS brake lines, replace the reservior, and change the fluid and bleed the system. I know how to bleed the brakes on car, but...
Is there a valve on the transmission for bleeding the clutch to get any air pockets out of it? I think I remember seeing one, but I can't be sure. So please help!
Also, if anyone else has had this problem, could you chime in with the repairs to did to fix it? Thanks!
Bleeding Brakes/Clutch?
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- BosnianLanos
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With my car, there is a little valve right where the hydraulic line goes into the bellhousing. You use a small wrench to open the valve, then have someone fully depress the peddle. Close the valve and have the person pull the peddle back off the floor. Repeat again and again until your clutch peddle feels normal.
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
+1exist3nce wrote:With my car, there is a little valve right where the hydraulic line goes into the bellhousing. You use a small wrench to open the valve, then have someone fully depress the peddle. Close the valve and have the person pull the peddle back off the floor. Repeat again and again until your clutch peddle feels normal.
MMamdouh
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