OK guys, I need some help. You have helped me in the past with A/C issues and other problems. If I have an issues this is the first place I go. My 2000 Lanos automatic shifts like a dream, until I drive about an hour or so and it starts to "clunk" in the gears. If I stop the car, shut off the engine and restart, the problem goes away, at least for a while. I have experimented and the problem is definitely related to the heat in the car (I know, sounds stupid!). If I put the heat on defrost (blowing on the window) it will not happen (or it is turned off). If the heat is on the floor it will happen. I found this by accident. I have the same problem as others with the 'camshaft position sensor" setting off the "check engine" light. if I keep the heat off the floor I do not get that fault code, and no check engine light. turn the heat on the floor, get the check engine light.
Is there some sensor near the heater or the vents on the inside of the car that is heat sensitive? I just ordered my repair manual and parts manual so if any of you pros have ideas, in a few days I may know what I am looking at.
As a side note, my heater selector switch is stripped. I can not change the position of the air flow with the knob on the dash. I must go underneath the steering wheel to move the cable/rod to defrost to keep that "camshaft position sensor fault" and the transmission issue from occurring. Over a few hours of driving it slips and the air starts coming out the floor again, causing problems!
Thank you in advance. i love this car but it is driving me nuts!!
There are far more knowledgeable people here than me, but I'll chime in anyway. As far as the tranny goes, I'm pretty sure my lanos has a tranny cooler (automatic) so maybe you're low on coolant or have some other radiator issue that turning the heater on gets rid of the extra heat. Without that, the tranny might be over heating. Is the engine over heating at all?
As far as the camshaft sensor, I'm having the fault code problem too and will have to try and see if switching the heat off of the floor fixes it. I'm pretty sure mine kicks on sometimes before it even gets warmed up, but I'll try. My best guess with yours is that the heat on the floor is hitting the ECU under the passenger seat and maybe causing a loose connection to expand or something and throw the code. I have noticed that my car is far more likely to throw the code when it's under 30 degrees outside.
check fluid levels in tranny...antifreeze level...as far as it only happening when it's blowing on the floor? I don't know unless it's letting water in to the passenger floor board when it's blowing down and your computer is getting damp...or the wiring under the carpet is damp?
I don't know about the tranny cooler. I don't know if this car has it or not. Is it a separate system from the engine cooling system? As far as the wet floor..... that problem was fixed a couple of years ago thanks to you guys!!! I had the problem with the air conditioner drain and fixed that. the floor has been clean and dry since. The "clunky" transmission is related to the heat coming in the floor or when the fire wall gets hot. The vent selector switch is stripped and I manually change it to the dash and defrost to keep the air up top and I don't have a problem!? Over time it slips and air starts coming out the floor gain. that's when I get a problem. All of the fluid levels are proper (tranny, antifreeze, oil). Where is the computer at? is it under the dash somewhere? the engine temperature is rock steady at the same place it has been since I got the car so it does not appear to be overheating.
I have read past entries on here and there are several that seem to have the same problem but I have not seen a definitive answer or cause yet. I'll try blocking the hot air from hitting the unit you said is under the passenger seat and see if that does anything. I'll keep you posted. thank you both of you for responding.
The unit under the passenger seat IS the computer. I wouldn't think the heater would blow on it that much but you never know. Could be some other wiring connection expanding in the heat under the carpet someplace. If you ever figure it out please let me know. I'm having my own PO342 code issue. I've replaced the sensor twice so that's not it. I've checked all of the connections through back to the ECU and they look ok. Tried checking with a meter, but since it's an intermittent problem and apparently only lasts for a split second long enough to throw the code, that didn't help much. The worst part is, non of the wiring diagrams or service manuals I can get a hold of have the camshaft sensor in it for whatever reason. I have a small section about a foot away from the sensor where it looks like the plastic cover had been pinching the 3 wires from the sensor. I'm just waiting on somebody who knows if I can splice them without a problem or not to let me know. I personally don't care about the problem, but I won't pass my state inspection in a week if the stupid light decides to come on during.
Oh, forgot to say about the wet floor. There is some foam padding under the carper on the passenger side that sops up water and takes a LONG time to dry out. The carpet itself doesn't look wet though. If you take your seat out to look at the computer, I'd check under there to see if it's wet still and check any wiring under there.
Yes, thanks Wessock. After I had the A/C wet floor problem I removed the carpet and exposed all the wiring and put a fan in there and dried everything out for DAYS! that was a year ago, so it should be good. You're right, that foam soaked up lots of water. I am not sure if that Camshaft Sensor code is coming from something it the wiring or the sensor. it clears if I keep the heat off the floor and the car is started a few times. I just need to keep checking the air flow selector to make sure it doesn't accidently slide back to "floor". My state inspection is the same way. i don't care about the code, the car is/has been running great, but it will not pass inspection if that "check engine" light is lit! They said my car was not included in the recall for a bad sensor (imagine that!?). It look slike sevearl people on this site have changed it out with the same results, still getting the code.
I had the A/C wet floor problem as well as another problem with water running in through the passenger door of the car if it was parked with the front facing up an incline. The computer is higher and didn't get wet, as are the wiring bundles, so it SHOULDN'T have done anything except make my passenger floor puff up when the wet foam expanded in the cold. I just told people my floor air bag went off. The leak was small and the carpet was never wet itself, I only had the puffy syndrome to notice it.
So you haven't changed the sensor yet right? I got one for the Aveo online for $39 shipped which wasn't bad. Don't buy the $90 +S/H Lanos one, it's a rip off. Haha, the one for the Lanos is made by GM, and the one for the Aveo is made by Daewoo. They are virtually identical and others have used them successfully in their Lanoses. It's worth a shot. Have you checked http://www.daewoous.com/Default.aspx to see what recalls are on your car? The dealer tried telling me I wasn't under the recall either until I showed him the print out from the sight saying exactly which ones I had done and still needed. It was pretty easy to replace once you figure it out. Just read around the forum for good advice on it.
For the climate control cables, what I did was just fix them with super glue and zip ties. From what I remember, I glued the plastic ends back to the black sheathing and used zip ties to hold them in place while they dried. Just have to be sure not to get glue on the inner cable. Been fine for 4 years now that way. There is a good thread in the forum on fixing that too because it's a really common problem. Daewoo used really cheap cables.
I'm to the point of just running and splicing wires directly from the sensor to their end points skipping any factory connectors and potential bad spots just so I can pass inspection on friday. IF that doesn't solve the problem then I really have no idea what the hell else it could be.
I gotcha Wessock. I think I read that entry on the "puffy floor" problem. I haven't had a leak since the A/C drain problem.
I have not changed my camshaft sensor but have not had a code for about 9 months, since I accidently found out about that heat thing. I tried it with and without fan, different temps, different air outputs. It would only code when air comes out the floor (regardless of fan) and it was above 3/4 hot on the climate control knob. Does your code ever go away? What year is your Woo. I just bought all the manuals for mine, only they substituted a '01 instead of the '00 I ordered. I have no idea what I am doing to fix something but I can look something up for you?
Yes, I checked with a dealer and the Daewoo site. they said that the recall was only for sensors with certain serial numbers on them. Of course they said mine was checked and didn't have the number that was effected!? If I can keep it from faulting by swapping some air flow around, that's good enough for me! As long as it's running well and the light isn't on for inspection it is a win!
thanks for the tip on fixing the climate control cables. If i can fit my backside underneath there and see what I am doing upside down, I'll give it a try. otherwise I'll manually make sure it's on defrost every couple of days!
no update other than to say it's still happening. It happens in the winter when the heater is on and the selector switch slides on its own out of the windshield defrost position. I manually reach down and push it where it needs to be. it seems to have trouble shifting into overdrive when I cruise, I have to almost treat it as a manual transmission by backing off the throttle at around 50 MPH to allow it to shift. it shifts like a dream until it kicks into that "clunking mode". I can tell when it's happening but really only feel a big difference inwhen it shifts in the lower gears while accelerating. If I forget to keep the heat off the floor I just pull over, shut the engine off and reset it. I am going to see if I can try and block a vent and see if that makes a difference.
I'd swap out the Transmission Controller Module to see if this fixes it. I really don't see the correlation to the transmission control and the heater in the car.
Did you check your trans fluid and the engine coolant?
The only thing I can fathom is that either a) there is a problem with the wiring inside the car which is temp sensitive, or b) your heater core is leaking, and when the floor vents are open this allows coolant to drip on some wiring... you can run your own tests, take a blow drier and start blowing on things under dash and floor till you replicate the problem. I would focus on the harness plugs located at the far right of the firewall. This is a known trouble area
As for the cmp fault there is a new reflash available which corrects this fault as well as the idle fault. It has been available for sometime now...
Specializing in European & Korean Only
Doral Auto Care
5171 NW 36th
Virginia Gardens, FL 33166
(305) 871-1121
BS Mechanical Engineering 12/12 (FINALLY!)
ASE Certified:
Engine Electrical
Engine Performance/Advance
Brakes & ABS
Air Conditioning
fluid levels are full and have never needed refilling (I'm guessing they don't leak then). It has to be something with the wiring. where is that harness that you said has been a problem area? also, what is this about this "cmp fault there is a new reflash available " fix? where is that transmission module? thanks for the help.
Keeping the heat off the floor keeps it from happening but my feet get cold and I'm sweating with the heat blowing out the defroster!! it's a small price to pay to keep my tranmission from tearing itself apart. at least the heat is working. thanks for the help.
Well pay close attention to the coolant level and get up under t6he dash both sides and look for signs of anytbhing out of place. As for the reflash, a TSB was issued by gm for certain chevy, saturn and daewoo vehicles which provides a new algorithim for the idle control, and cam sensor. it illiminated fast starts with cold engines on hot days, and the cam position cel fault. It also provided smoother shifts like the aveo for older daewoo cars...
as for the tcm its the ACTUAL pcm both are incorporated into one another. The blue connector of the pcm houses the majority of the input/outputs of the tcm.
Specializing in European & Korean Only
Doral Auto Care
5171 NW 36th
Virginia Gardens, FL 33166
(305) 871-1121
BS Mechanical Engineering 12/12 (FINALLY!)
ASE Certified:
Engine Electrical
Engine Performance/Advance
Brakes & ABS
Air Conditioning
