Trying to locate KNOCK SENSOR on 2001 Daewoo Nubira CD(pics)

[diesel_benz]

Hey everyone,

I got the P0327 check engine code. It means the "knock sensor 1" might be faulty. However I didn't know there are 2 knock sensors? Anyone know where the other is? The one I know of is right behind the hot plate off the engine (see pics). Is this knock sensor 1 or 2?

In the bottom left corner of the pic is the new knock sensor that I've ordered. However I'm not quite sure how its going to attach (see pic). The old one seems extremely difficult to get off because of the location of the bolt (but this part said it was for Nubiras 98-2002). Can't get a wrench to reach it.

The image is in the link below. I couldn't attach it as an image because it was cutting off the right side of the picture:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/706356/knock.JPG

REALLY appreciate help with this. My car is sitting in driveway until I get this fixed!

[Daniel]

Hi,

There's only one knock sensor and it's located in the middle of rear side of engine. Maybe there's only a poor contact inside it's connector.
What is showed on the pic is the oxygen sensor.

Daniel

[diesel_benz]

Thanks Daniel.

that's the oxygen sensor? I guess they have the same plug as the knock sensor? But you must be right because the head didn't look the same as the new part, as you can see in the pic. Could you show me on the pic where exactly the knock sensor is. What will I have to take off to get to it.

Thanks again.

[diesel_benz]

Oh.. my other question was how do I know if its really fixed. Will the engine light off or will I have to reset it with an obdII machine. And then if I reset it, will the light come back right away if the part is bad?

Sorry i'm not usually fixing cars so I don't have a lot of general knowledge of cars. Where the oxygen sensor is in that pic.. is that the front of the engine?, and so the knock sensor is on the opposite side?

[Daniel]

The oxygen sensor (often mis-named lambda sensor) is located on the exhaust manifold in front of your engine. Depending of pollution control system fitted on your car you "may" have a second oxygen sensor after the the cat in the exhaust line.

The knock sensor is bolted on rear side of engine (item #22). You probably can see it with help of a mirror and a good light. But I bet you have to go under car to remove it. For your safety don't go under any car until securized by jack stands.




Engine light will go off after (I think) 3 consecutive ignition cycles without a fault.
History diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will clear after 40 consecutive warup cycles without a fault.
DTC(s) can be immediately cleared by using the scan tool.
The light will come back right away if the part (or it's connexion) is bad.

Daniel,

[Trey05Woo]

The knock sensor is a big doughnut like plastic sensor located right under the intake manifold (where the water pump pipe runs). It has a 14mm bolt running right through the middle of it. It detects abnormal noises (knock ping) coming from the engine and pulls ignition timing accordingly to protect the engine.

It could be bad, or you could have another problem such as incorrect plugs (too hot), too much carbon build up in the engine, mechanical problems with the engine (bad lifter for example) which could be setting off irratic noises causing the PCM to believe the sensor is not working correctly...

Once you replace it the CEL will not go away immediately. The computer will run self tests, and after x amount of ignition cycles (key on off) if the problem no longer exists, the light will go out. To erase it right away you will need a scan tool, or disconnect the battery...

[diesel_benz]

Every time I hit a big pot hole (which can be very frequently in the nyc area), the engine light might go on (or off). Also, I've noticed a few times that when I sit idle the car will jolt back and forth, and the only way to stop it is to put it in neutral and rev the engine, or to start driving. Then after a minute or two it might not happen the whole night.

I thought I might mention this in case anyone knows if problems may be related.

Thanks

[Trey05Woo]

And the code it throws when you experience said issue is the knock sensor code? Could be a problem in the wiring harness, could be bad engine mounts (vibration = noise) and could be an exhaust problem. Such as a loose pipe which is rubbing against the chassis etc. The exhaust if it is not hung correctly will rub and will transmit all the engine vibrations to the chassis. The knock sensor will pick this up and retard timing.

Seeing your in the NYC your exhaust hangars/mount will probably be rusted and damaged.

[diesel_benz]

Thanks for the quick reply. I actually live outside of NYC and am only there maybe once a week. But I do experience excessive vibration (I can see my steering wheel vibrating at idle). And yes the code was knock sensor code (P0327). It does seem a little "rough" at idle.

I have a feeling the wiring harness may be the issue, but that wouldnt explain the vibration. Tomorrow I drop it off with the dealer and will let him know.

Also, this is a completely separate issue, but would you know much about the "power" button on the gear shaft ? It is supposed to give you more power at lower rpms when you push it. However I tried pushing it and nothing shows up on the dash (a light "power" is suppsoed to show). So I opened the shifter and found two wires, a black and white one, that were cut, which would explain why the button is doing nothing. Is there any wiring diagram for this or some way I can diagnose the "power" system on this car?

Thanks again.

[Trey05Woo]

In all honesty, I've never seen a car with a completely fuctional pwr button. According to GM specs, the button is supposed to downshift when pressed. Like on the highway to pass a vehicle for example. Rather than shift it to D3 you push pwr and it does it for you. Its also supposed to keep the solenoids in a specific gear longer when spirited driving. Like say you want to pull off from a red light quickly, but then needed to reduce speed momentairly, normally the car will shift to the next gear and this reduces engine response, in power mode it will stay in the gear regardless unless speed reduced significantly.

Thats the theory, but like i said Ive never really seen it work as advertised on much of the vehicles I've seen.

As far as your car goes, a common problem is the button loses some tension and then with vibration and driving the light will flicker on and off, so probably this is why they cut the wires. Just join the same color wires to each other, and see it it works correctly...

[Trey05Woo]

Ohh BTW your vibration issue is probably the cause for the CEL. Knock sensors detect vibration. The lower trans mount on the nubis is the weak point.