Turbo my NUBIRA !

[Michaell_92]

Good news the Queensland law is allowing teenagers to turbo charge you car but with exceptions

Long story short your car can only have 125kw per tonne,
Kilowatts (divide) weight of car (times) 1000 = must be under 125

So im going to turbo her , I need a list of what I'll need , do I needs to upgrade throttle body pistons and all that shit and ecu,

I'll start with what I have been told will work.. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... 0026105453

Can someone point me in right direction

[benzino]

run low boost (like 4psi) and you shouldnt need upgraded internals

you can get the oil feed from the side of your engine closest to the firewall. there's a plug in the block near the pressure sensor and oil filter which is a M14x1.5 fitting.

you will have to tap the sump to create an oil return

you should be able to intercept any water line, in fact there's a water line that goes into your throttle body to prevent icing. i would put a t-piece there in order to get water to your turbo.

don't use the boost solenoid on the vxr turbo, just run a vacuum feed straight to the actuator and you will get a solid 4 psi



you will also need the computer, you should get away with just runing a piggyback and larger injectors
and don't forget you will need to have a dump pipe fabricated as well

go for a dyno run before you start to see what you have to work with and post the graph up here

a low boost set up should cost no more than 3-4 grand with most of that going towards the computer and tuning

[Michaell_92]

yeh im going to dyno my car soon after the 8th, if im going to put the turbo on, do i need boost controller and shit ?
and with about 4 psi max , will i need to run an intercooler ? and will a blow off valve even release much air and give sound or just breathe

[benzino]

you don't need a boost controller... that's what the actuator does
you would need one if you wanted to run higher than 4 psi though

at that low boost you could get away with no intercooler but it wouldn't be as efficient (I think stock VL commodore turbos ran around 7psi with no intercooler)
running no intercooler will bring down costs and will make it a bit more responsive but intake temps will be high
you could source a SMIC from a silvia or a gti that would be small but better than nothing like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SMIC-ALUMINU ... 3cbb33e209

about the BOV: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1340277
are you turbo-ing for performance or the blow off sound? :s

[Michaell_92]

ok yeh its just i dont want to blow the motor if i put a turbo on
i think my car overall weight is 1720KG, on rego certificate it says tare 1720 so i guess thats weight ?
i could have about 200kw at wheels if i turbo atm i maybe have about 100-110 ? maybe unsure,
i want turbo for performance lol bov is just one of those things that if its louder it creates more attention so im not sure whether to get a quiet or an hks one or something
i wanna be the only turbo daewoo in maybe qld

[PrecisionBoost]

Under 7 psi an intercooler is certainly optional, but you can in fact offset the loss in efficiency by installing a water/methanol injection system.

The methanol /water will reduce temperature of the intake air/fuel and allow you to continue to use the factory timing.

The BOV will give you a chirp even if your only running 4psi.

Having said all this, your looking for 200kW, which is a significant upgrade in power from your stock 98kW

At that level you may start slipping your factory clutch, so you will have to consider that in your total cost.

At 7 psi it's likely your not going to make 200kW at the wheels, if I were you I would start off with a goal of 150kW

Trust me, you may think that's far short of where you want to be, but with 7psi I think 150kW is an attainable and fun power level.

You will break loose your tires in the first 2-3 gears and it will be far less expensive than 200kW. ( probably half the price )

I only suggest this because it's big step to jump right up to 200kW unless you have a good handle on what exactly is required.


Over 150kW I would suggest the following :

1 ) Upgraded Clutch
2 ) Larger Brakes
3 ) Wider, stickier tires
4 ) Limited Slip Differencial
5 ) Forged pistons and upgrade of rods + rod bolts ( C20XE or C20LET rods could be used )
6 ) Intercooler
7 ) Astra VXR injectors
8 ) Water/Methanol injection system
9 ) One step colder spark plugs
10 ) Additional injector(s) with programable control or Piggyback computer
11 ) Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
12 ) Wideband Oxygen sensor and or pyrometer for exhaust temperature

There are a few more items, but this would be a good solid start on a system that could be upgraded in the future once your allowed to do what ever you want with the car ( 300+ kW )

[benzino]

150 at the wheels or fly?
Just wondering because stage 2 zlet is 160kw at the wheels and 16psi overboost

150 at the fly makes a lot more sense at that boost level

[Michaell_92]

can you get me the forged pistons , injectors and rods, and with spark plugs i installed ngk spark plugs , would the one step cold ones be better

[gse_turbo]

what type of bubget are you looking at? I have forged Wiseco pistons ready to sell as well as C20LET connecting rods or forged h-beams if the budget allows. as well as anything else you would need.

[PrecisionBoost]

150 at the wheels or fly?
Just wondering because stage 2 zlet is 160kw at the wheels and 16psi overboost

150 at the fly makes a lot more sense at that boost level

I made 235whp fairly easy at 10psi of boost, if you scale that down to 7psi then it should be relatively easy to make 200whp ( 150kw at wheels )

That was with the stock nubira ECU and a Greddy Emanage to help adjust fuel (as I was using larger 550CC injectors and needed the Emanage to cut the duty cycle )

[benzino]

so how does a zlet only make 160 at 16psi?

how much torque were you making at 10psi?

[Michaell_92]

Will those forged pistons fit to the x20sed ?

[benzino]

Pistons are rarely car specific, it's all about measurements...

[gse_turbo]

Pistons are rarely car specific, it's all about measurements...

I can't entirely agree with that. perhaps with the blank forgings this would be the case but there are so many unique measurements to every engine that it makes them engine specific.
just to spout off a couple...
-Bore
-wrist pin height
-wrist pin diameter
-wrist pin length
-compression height
-valve angel
-valve pocket depth
-valve placement
-combustion chamber vaolume (compression ratio)
-spark plug location for high compression pistons

the only pistons that I keep on hand are for the 2.0 Opel/Daewoo Ecotec so yes they are the right pistons. However, the ones I have are over bore 1mm. I also have custom pistons madefor these engines so I can have a set made to fit your block without changes.

[PrecisionBoost]

so how does a zlet only make 160 at 16psi?

how much torque were you making at 10psi?

Torque was a healthy 252 lb ft @10psi

To be honest, I don't know where you get your statistics, most VXR's running stage 2 with 16psi peak and holding between 12psi and 14psi contant are making around 230BHP at the wheels

I am looking at one of my Total Vauxhall magazines and I see a completely stock Z20LET making 195BHP at the wheels

Z20LET with a filter, iridium plugs,FMIC made 199BHP (at wheels )
Z20LET with an upgraded exhaust,intake made 201BHP ( at wheels )


The Astra VXR was rated at 240 hp (flywheel ) so at the wheels that should be right in that range of 195 horsepower at the wheels in the completely stock car