Turbo my NUBIRA !

[Michaell_92]

I just want more power , got done for defect tonight . Had straight pipes on, bye bye license again and 200$

[benzino]

so how does a zlet only make 160 at 16psi?

how much torque were you making at 10psi?

Torque was a healthy 252 lb ft @10psi

To be honest, I don't know where you get your statistics, most VXR's running stage 2 with 16psi peak and holding between 12psi and 14psi contant are making around 230BHP at the wheels

I am looking at one of my Total Vauxhall magazines and I see a completely stock Z20LET making 195BHP at the wheels

Z20LET with a filter, iridium plugs,FMIC made 199BHP (at wheels )
Z20LET with an upgraded exhaust,intake made 201BHP ( at wheels )


The Astra VXR was rated at 240 hp (flywheel ) so at the wheels that should be right in that range of 195 horsepower at the wheels in the completely stock car

the astra G gsi my partner just purchased has FMIC, filter, iridium plugs, vxr turbo, EDS phase 2 map, 2.5" dump back exhaust w/100cell cat and that put down 160kw at the wheels (217hp).
I'm just suprised that running at 7psi you would get 150kw atw (half the boost = 10kw reduction?) and at 10psi you got ~170kw!! was that with stock compression?
I dont know whether I should be incredibly impressed or suspicious of your dyno! hahaha

[PrecisionBoost]

the astra G gsi my partner just purchased has FMIC, filter, iridium plugs, vxr turbo, EDS phase 2 map, 2.5" dump back exhaust w/100cell cat and that put down 160kw at the wheels (217hp).
I'm just suprised that running at 7psi you would get 150kw atw (half the boost = 10kw reduction?) and at 10psi you got ~170kw!! was that with stock compression?
I dont know whether I should be incredibly impressed or suspicious of your dyno! hahaha

My friend owned a tuning shop, I spent many a night helping him dyno cars, his dyno was spot on.
Again, a dead stock Astra VXR makes 150kw with a number of comprimises regarding peak vs constant boost.

To be clear, I'm the kind of guy that builds engine maps, I'm not the kind of guy that plugs in a pre-maid map from a tuning company.

My engine was built by a profesional race engine company for 600 whp, the engine is worth over $15K so it's not a bunch of stock parts jumbled together. This engine is heavily ported and I have a far better turbo than the crap box VXR system ( Garret ball bearing GT3571R )

To be honest, your friends car sounds like it has some problems, most of the stage 2 VXR guys are running 170kw to 180kw at the wheels with very light modificaiton.

Any way you cut it, you can easily make well over 150kw without a turbo and it should be very simple to make 150kw at 7psi of boost using the stock high compression pistons in combination with some extra equipment designed to reduce detonation (water/meth )

[benzino]

Calm down,I know it's sometimes hard to interpret tone over the Internet so I'm sorry if you thought I was attacking your work. I wasn't trying to argue with you.

I'm just curious; you're the expert when it comes to these things, not me.
I have no doubt that you got 170kw at 10psi with a race built/ported/flowed engine with a gt35. I thought you were saying you got that figure with a relatively standard engine! That's why I was confused.

I don't think my girl's car has a problem as that figure is pretty much on par with what EDS quotes for stage 2: PHASE-2 260PS / 400NM INTERCOOLER LEH-TURBO UPDATE_04.03.2010 Overboost 17psi Holding @ 15psi (260ps=191kw -15% drivetrain loss = 162kw).
But as you say, custom maps are always better than generic and that can be seen most clearly with the lambda reading which averaged about 0.8 (the richest being 0.7 and the leanest being 0.85!)

[PrecisionBoost]

To be honest, you were not around when I actually contributed heavily to the technical bits of this site, so I assumed you were arguing the numbers because you were unaware of my knowledge on tuning cars.

I rarely say anything unless I'm sure of it, in this particular case with the nubira he would be running stock compression ratios which are high enough to boost horsepower/torque by a significant margin.

The big problem is that your engine will turn into a bomb if you run out of the water/meth.

Some people have set up switches that cut boost and retard timing when your reserve tank shows the water/meth at a critical level to ensure they know not to run the car under boost with an empty tank.

[benzino]

Don't worry, even though I haven't been round long I respect the amount of work and effort you have provided for the whole family II tuning community.

With water/meth injection, the only reason I would utilise it would be if I wasusing a roots blower where intercooling is hard to integrate. With small FMIC cores coming out of china being so cheap these days, I wouldn't even think about water/meth... just too messy
But then again, I don't think I would turbo without first tearing the engine down to make sure everything is 100% and then you may as well get everything dipped and cleaned and then fill it with forged goodies anyway... do it right do it once

[PrecisionBoost]

Inter cooling can only do so much, even in a high efficiency system, running over 9.5:1 with forced induction requires additional measures over and above that of a decent intercooler.

After all, you can't control the temperature of the ambient air.

The methanol certainly helps as much or more than the water as they both absorb massive amounts of heat when they vaporize.

Another option is an water to air intercooler system, you can then drop the intercooler well below ambient air temperatures.

Nitrous is also another good "cooler" of the intake air charge, some guys have measured temperatures below 0 deg Celcius even when running in warm temperatures in the 30-40 degree Celcius range.

Just as with water/meth, you need to be very careful to ensure you don't accidentally blow the engine thanks to a clogged spray nozzle ( be it alchohol, gasoline or water )