Red_LaNOS wrote:Righteo, well looks like ill be heading down to supercheap looking for product codes on those gaskets and the exhaust manifolds.
@Benzino The price for one rear swaybar was $280 the price for two being $560 (no discounted price), postage is an extra $25. Mind you that was for the Astra TS I-beam and not for the lanos I-beam.
The astra has a different design I-beam so a swaybar for that wouldn't fit on the lanos beam. A few years back they made a lanos sway bar for fast fours magazine project howler. They told me they lost the design but they could easily make another with the measurements. If you pm me your email address I could email you all the emails I have from k-mac.
With the extractors, I bought them a couple of years ago to put on my 2.0L (the 1.8 and 2.0 have the same gasket) they were advertised to fit the 1.8... They sat in my garage for a year as I didn't have time/money with uni to get my exhaust done (2.0L + stock 1.75" exhaust = chokey mcChoked) so I sold them on here to someone else with a 2.0l nubira. He said they were nowhere near close and that's when I started researching the flanges and found that the 1.6 looks incredibly the same. That's why I'm shocked they're advertising them for the 1.5 now. They're bloody jokers... On ebay I've never had any good experiences with western australians. But for that price I would say it's definitely worth getting and if they fit, tell the seller to tell other people they sold them to!
Garrett: the 1.5 was never sold as DOHC in australia and the SOHC has round ex. ports. With the saab 900 is that the 1994-1998 model? if so we got that one...
Yeah i had a quick look at gasket codes at supercheap, and they didnt have a 1.5 DOHC listed and i did look at the gasket pattern and its the same as the bolt pattern on the advertised Extractor. My problem now is my understanding of the Original Lanos 1.6 Manifold, the flange on this seems to be positioned so short and then the section that accounts for Torque flex of the engine is much lower under the car. The image of the advertised extractor extends way past the point where the stock manifold attaches to the exhaust system. Keeping in mind i have a Hi flow CAT and straight through muffler with 2.5" piping from the CAT down and was hoping to still utilise this. Any ideas?
With regards to the swaybar, i know the Astra I-beam is round in shape whereas the lanos is square in shape. We worked out numbers and it would actually be cheaper to just fit the Astra discs to the Lanos I-beam and take an Astra swaybar and use custom brackets to make it work. This suggestion sound corrrect to you guys?
Dammit i keep clicking "Submit" before i realise i have more to post. Another question is, when the rear disc conversion is completed. Its obvious ill have to change the master cyclinder for the brakes. What is it i actually do here, is it possible just to use the Astra master cyclinder?
Red_LaNOS wrote:Dammit i keep clicking "Submit" before i realise i have more to post. Another question is, when the rear disc conversion is completed. Its obvious ill have to change the master cyclinder for the brakes. What is it i actually do here, is it possible just to use the Astra master cyclinder?
As I mentioned before, it's just the proportional valves that need exchange, stock master cylinder will be fine.
If you don't change out the proportional valves your rear disk brakes will lock up on you during hard braking.
The "rear disk" proportional valves only let 20% of the pressure through to the rear disks, where as the rear drums would receive approximately 40% of the pressure.
You can buy aftermarket adjustable proportional valves ( willwood for example ) but they can be a pain to set up and you would have to modify the lines coming from the master cylinder.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
Just buying the rear disks today and the extractors. Looks like my first mod will be a close ratio calibra gear box! I'll keep you guys all posted! Prehaps even pics.
not bad, I will be looking forward to your how to so I can finally fit mine. The only thing stopping me is the hard brake lines and the handbrake cable as I'm not sure how much fabrication is needed... Did you grab the proportioning valves too?
and did you go see antony?
Yes ive gone to see Anthony, was there yesterday actually. We havent done anything with the brakes yet, my car is still NSW registered so i need to get it QLD registered and pass the inpsection before carrying out all the very noticeable mods like rear brakes. Anthony has done rear disc conversions on his Daewoo 1.5i's and they use a very similar chassis to my own, though from what he said i think the rear hubs were welded rather than bolted to the I-beam in that model. With the brakes the lanos has diagonally opposed brakes, so four lines coming out of the master cylinder. This complicates things so the easiest way to overcome this is just use a TS astra master cylinder which isnt diagonally opposed. That master cyclinder bolts onto the brake booster differently so that means you would have to get the two together for the sake of ease. The bore of the TS astra master cylinder is 23mm i think, whereas the lanos is 22/21 i think.
Ultimately we are going for commodore calipers on the front so for me to utilise the astra rear discs we would have to find an interim solution otherwise id have to do it all at once including upgrading the rims to 15's to fit the front brakes. I will however start documenting everything so that you guys can read it if its of any interest to any of you, pictures and all.
Right now we are working on the suspension and gearbox so i can get out there racing as soon as possible! Yesterday i went to Anthony's place and we tried to swap out the gearbox, my D16 for his F16 Cavalier SRI. His gearbox has very close ratios, we are talking just over 4000rpm @ 110km/h in 5th gear. The problem we ran into was that the D16 gearbox bolts underneath to the sump whereas the F16 gearbox has the screws in the same locations but bolt to a coverplate that hides the clutch/flywheel.
Just curious if anyone has done this swap and knows anything other complications? If the bolt size is the only problem then we can just enlarge these to connect the F16 to my lanos sump. I know the D16 has a hydraulic clutch and the F16 a cable clutch, we are going to convert the F16 to a hydraulic clutch. Has anyone done this swap and run into any complications. Also how easy is the hydraulic conversion of the F16?
For the suspension we are going to use an interim solution which will be replacing my front struts with Calibra struts from the 2L versions. The Calibras are heavier so it will increase ride height a bit but the stiffness will make it capable of going in a few small rally's. As for the rear springs, we will replace them with Calibra springs as well.
I've taken some pictures of the gearbox's yesterday so you all can see what im talking about. Ill start writing up a word document to paste in a new forum post that will just say everything that was done and how we did it and why.
@Benzino i haven't forgotten you, once we get the brakes in (pretty soon hopefully) you will be the first person i message!
The Daewoo Lanos D16 gearbox bolted at the bottom to the sump:
The Cavalier SRI gearbox showing that it isnt bolted to the sump but instead has a metal shield which isnt present in this image so you can see where the fly wheel is
how is gearbox clearance with the different sumps? will the f16 physically fit with the a16dms sump?
as for master cylinder, I don't see how the diagonally opposed cylinder will cause a problem? The nubira has rear discs and the same size front brakes as the lanos 1.6 and a master cylinder that bolts up the same (and is diagonally opposed) the only difference is the proportioning valves... that's what I have to go in to my lanos
It looks like it will physically fit, and as for the brakes well itd just be easier to have a front line and a rear line when installing the hydraulic handbrake and bias lever. Plus the bore isnt enough for commodore calipers on the front.
Thing i dont know is whether the difference in bolt size is the only issue we will run into, if it is then thats fine, if there are more problems to run into along the way, that could be too hard, in which case it would be easier to jsut swap the internals out.
