chip18sw wrote:
I have a concern about the crossmember bolt that runs under the halfshaft. I'd had read that you have to cut that bolt off because the half shaft interfears with the bolt removeal? Is that the case? I don't want to have to screw around with the half shafts! Can this bolt be removed without screwing with the halfshaft
Yesterday I was working on a RHD Nubira, and this bolt sits underneath the edge of the CV for the halfshaft / driveshaft on the passenger side (left side). The only way I can see to remove this bolt is to lower the crossmember, or since it was a wreck I was working on, I just popped (levered off) the halfshaft from the gearbox to get the CV out of the way (oh I also disconnected the knuckle assembly from the strut (removed two bolts) in order to pop the halfshaft and pull away from the gearbox). I didn't pay enough attention but from memory the halfshaft does not go into the gearbox, rather there is a spline coming out of the gearbox that the halfshaft goes into. So I'm not sure (i.e. doubt) if there are any seals that need to be replaced. I'll be visiting this car again either today or tomorrow so will confirm.
If you do pop the halfshaft, use something to lever the back of the CV against the gearbox to pop it off - i.e. don't try pulling the shaft to pop it otherwise the CV joint could fall apart inside the rubber CV boot.
I suggest wrapping the ball joint rubber with a rag to stop the ball joint rubber seal from damage as you fight to get the control arm out and in.
This whole deals has cost us about $600 dollars so far and the car is still not fixed! 4 new tires, two flats, a 16 mile tow and origianl install of the $76 a pairr A arms.
Thanks everyone, I think we'll get it fixed. Been doing supenshion mods my whole life and I've never seen anything like this...that's why I went to the pros!
I can confirm there are oil seals on the output of the transmission for the halfshafts. So changing the seals should be considered if you pop the shafts out of the transmission.
Also, there are different halfshafts used on the right side for different transmissions. Shafts with manual transmissions (as per Daniels picture) are longer and show the front control arm bolt underneath the middle of the halfshaft. Auto transmission vehicles have a shorter halfshaft where the transmission side CV joint is above the front control arm bolt.
What this means is that when you're servicing the right side control arm with autos, you'll need to pop the halfshaft out of the auto transmission to get the CV joint out of the way, in order to lift the front control arm bolt out of the crossmember.
Hmm I responed days ago but I put it in a quote so It's up above in an older post. Yes this explains it all and thsank you very much! I will print this out for the tech as I am tired of working on it, still gotta do the rear shocks and have two other cars to work on.
Ok, I actually did the whole job today of removing and reinstalling the control arms on my 2000 manual Nubira. It's the first time they've been removed from this car and it's clear the split sleeves are supposed to partly sit in the crossmember to improve rigidity of the bushing sleeve once it's bolted tight.
Here's a step-by-step process. Sorry no pics.
The following assumes the front wheels are removed and the vehicle is safely supported on appropriate stands.
Be careful not to pinch/split/damage any rubber boot covers during the process.
REMOVAL
========
01. Remove the control arms rear 19mm bushing bolt from the crossmember-to-body. Use a long wrench as it will be very tight (I used my torque wrench).
02. Remove the outer crossmember support plate-to-body 14mm bolt.
03. Loosen the inner crossmember support plate-to-body 14mm bolt, and rotate the support plate out of the way of the control arm rear bolt hole.
04. Remove control arm front bushing 17mm nut from bolt.
05. Remove ball-joint pinch bolt and nut (both 14mm).
06. Remove stabiliser-link upper ball joint 14mm or 17mm nuts on both sides of the car. Some stabiliser-links require a hex key inserted into the end of the ball-joint bolt in order to help remove the 17mm nut with a spanner. Other stabiliser-links have a 15mm nut built into the balljoint bolt on the ball joint rubber boot side. A thin 15mm spanner will be needed to hold the ball joint bolt while removing its 14mm locking nut.
07. Lift the swaybar up as far as you can (50mm or so).
08. Tap a short wide screw driver or similar wedge into split section of knuckle pinch holding the ball joint pin to slightly open the lock on the ball joint pin.
09. Place a jack under the rotor and raise the jack to hold the rotor.
10. Remove both steering knuckle to strut bolts.
11. Remove the steering knuckle from the strut pulling down from the top as to not dislocate the outer CV joint.
12. Rotate the strut tower towards the rear of the car to get the knuckle anchors out of the way of the outer CV joint.
13. Slowly lift the rotor with the jack making sure not to pinch the outer CV boot on the bottom of the strut tower.
14. Remove the ball joint from the knuckle being careful not to scrape/pinch/damage the ball joint rubber boot. You may need to rotate and move the knuckle toward the front of the car to make more room in order to lift the knuckle away from the ball joint. You might also need to use some force depending on rust/tightness of the ball joint pin. Best case is that it will just slip out.
15. With the knuckle and halfshaft being forward, you should now be able to lift and remove the control arms front bolt out. Automatic transmission vehicles may require you to pop the halfshaft out of the transmission to get the inner CV joint out of the way of the control arms front bolt.
16. Rotate the front of the control arm out of the crossmember paying special attention to the ball joint rubber boot so you don't damage it. You may need to negotiate the wheel knuckle around to allow the control arm to rotate out. The rear of the control arm will still be locked into the crossmember by the split sleeves.
17. As per board member Daniels suggestion, you will need to make up a hook in order to remove the split sleeves from the control arms rear bolt to crossmember hole. I made a double hook pointing in opposite directions using some 3mm steel wire.
18. From underneath the car, take a peek into the bottom of the control arm rear bolt hole and see if the lower split sleeve is sitting in the bottom of the crossmember. If it is, insert your hook about 28mm into and along the edge of the bolt hole until you feel it pass the end of the lower split sleeve. Start pulling down with side force until you can remove the split sleeve. Once it comes out a few millimeters, you can use a pair of pliers to pull it out by clamping the sleeve closed so it comes out easier.
19. Do the same with the upper split sleeve, inserting your hook around 60mm deep. Just pull the sleeve down enough so it's no longer caught in the upper part of the crossmember.
20. You should now be able to pull the control arm out.
21. Remove the upper split sleeve from the control arm rear bushing sleeve.
If you're going to re-use your split sleeves, clean any rust/corrosion and apply a very light film of grease inside and out so it's just wet and no more.
INSTALLATION
============
01. Insert the upper split sleeve into the control arms rear bushing sleeve so it's flush with the top.
02. Install the rear of the control arm into the crossmember.
03. Manoeuvre the control arm so the rear bushing sleeve is in as best alignment with the crossmember bolt hole.
04. Insert the lower split sleeve into the bolt hole until it reaches the upper split sleeve. At this point the lower split sleeve should still be about 3mm below the bottom of the crossmember.
05. Insert the control arms rear bolt and screw it in finger tight until it touches the lower split sleeve.
06. Using your 19mm wrench, slowly tighten the bolt until the lower split sleeve starts going into the bolt hole and forces the upper split sleeve to move into the upper section of the cross member. It may take a few attempts to get the upper split sleeve to align into the top of the crossmember hole. Make sure you leave about 1.5mm of the lower split sleeve still accessible with a pair of pliers.
07. Remove the 19mm bolt.
08. Remove the lower split sleeve with your pair of pliers.
09. Insert a spade screw driver into the bolt hole along the side until it reaches the bottom of the upper split sleeve. Tap the upper split sleeve further into the top of the crossmember until it measures about 29mm from the bottom of the crossmember. Don't push the upper split sleeve all the way to the top of its travel otherwise you will not be able to hook it out at a later time.
10. Insert the lower split sleeve until it's flush with the bottom of the crossmember. This process ensures you get both split sleeves into the crossmember and leaves space in between the split sleeves so the lower split sleeve can be removed on its own with a hook at a later date.
11. Rotate the crossmember support plate back into position.
12. Install the crossmember support plate to body outer 14mm bolt. Finger tighten.
13. Install the control arms rear 19mm bolt again and finger tighten.
14. Rotate the front of the control arm into position (paying special attention to not damage the ball joint rubber boot) until you can install the control arms front 14mm bolt from top and 17mm nut on the bottom. Finger tighten.
15. Manoeuvre and lift the wheel knuckle until you can get the ball joint installed into the designated location in the lower knuckle (take care not to damage the CV joint rubber boot with the bottom of the strut tower).
16. Install the ball-joint pinch bolt and nut (both 14mm) into the knuckle. Finger tighten.
17. Rotate the strut tower back into position to insert the knuckle for mounting.
18. Carefully manoeuvre the wheel knuckle bolt anchors into the strut tower frame. Keep your eye on the CV joint boot cover as to not damage it.
19. Install both strut tower to wheel knuckle 17mm bolts and nuts. Finger tighten.
20. Tighten the control arm front bolt 17mm nut to 110 Nm (81 lb/ft)
21. Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt 14mm nut to 60 Nm (44 lb/ft).
22. Tighten the rear control arm crossmember to body 19mm bolt to 196 Nm (145 lb/ft).
23. Tighten the crossmember support plate to body 14mm bolts to 47 Nm (35 lb/ft).
24. Re-install the stabiliser-link upper ball joint 14mm or 17mm nuts on both sides of the car. Tighten the upper ball joint nut to 47Nm (35 lb/ft).
25. Tighten the steering knuckle–to–strut assembly nuts to 100 Nm (74 lb/ft).
Re-install the wheels, remove the stand(s), lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.
You may need to check and have a wheel alignment performed.
Hope this is useful and I haven't forgotten anything.
Last edited by Quench on Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I took it to the shop with doc',s split sleeve's and a demonstration! Tires Plus out here did the work, they got the car after the A arms were changed and made it worst. Don't know if the original problem was bad A arms(76 dollars a pair on e bay) or a bad install (first shop dropped the subframe to do the install??)
Anyway the new A arms (AC Delco) were installed with new split sleeves and it drives in it's non tire eating ways once again! But now a new problem! I'll start a new thread. Thanks everyone!
I took it to the shop with doc',s split sleeve's and a demonstration! Tires Plus out here did the work, they got the car after the A arms were changed and made it worst. Don't know if the original problem was bad A arms(76 dollars a pair on e bay) or a bad install (first shop dropped the subframe to do the install??)