Oil not registering on dipstick? Nubira '99 wagon

[MightyMothra]

Bought this car two days ago. Took in for oil change since oil looked dark and previous owner seemed clueless in general. Was told they would not perform the oil change because the plug in the drain pan was stripped and there was evidence that someone had patched the oil pan. So I went off and found a used pan at junkyard and set to pulling the oil pan, and replacing it. Once the muffler was removed (didn't think I had to do that but did...) I was upset to find the pan was wholly intact, and the plug was fine. Clearly the manager of the lube place will be getting a call from me in the morning... he had also given me a business card for someone that could replace the pan for me. What a scam! I hate being a girl and going to a mechanic, let me just say that up front.

But I digress... when I put it all back together with new gasket, new oil filter and filled it up to 4.1 which I believe is correct there is no oil registering on the dipstick. I've confirmed it's the correct dipstick for the engine. I started the car and let it run for a minute or two at most, then waited an hour thinking oil would work its way down into the pan. I started the car and drove around the block after letting it idle for five minutes. I checked again and no oil on the dipstick. And even worse - there is a distinct irregular knocking sound that was not present before! Is it possible there was something in the dirty oil that was masking a knocking sound? What could possibly cause this? What should I check next?

For ability/background on me -- I have generally had good luck with standard maintenance and replace/repair (radiators, water pumps, alternators, brakes sort of things) for other vehicles I've owned. I have basic tools and am great at following schematics/directions. Thanks in advance for helping out a newbie....

Patty

[Daniel]

Was your oil pressure warning lamp ON at idle?
Those 4.1 oil are somewhere!
Engine size?
Auto tranny?

[MightyMothra]

No low oil warning light - it does illuminate with the rest of the panel lights when key is first turned.

It's an automatic trans, engine 2.0L

And this morning there was a great spot of oil so apparently there's a leak coming from other than the pan or filter. Sigh.

[MightyMothra]

Actually the oil is registering now. I guess it takes awhile to circulate?

New issue is with leaking coolant. So, looks like I will have my hands full with this "bargain" I purchased

[Daniel]

Glad it's ok now. But normally 5W-30 oil should pours down to pan in seconds.
Blame previous owner. Not the car.

[Puddle31]

when you changed the oil perhaps you were just not seeing it on the dipstick. new oil is pretty clear and if you were used to seeing that black stuff on there, that was easy to see the oil level? Like Daniel said that oil went down into the pan right away and should have been showing on the dipstick. First thing to check on the antifreeze is to look and see where the puddle is under the car when you park it. that should give you aplace to start to see where it is dripping from. the good news is that it is not going INTO the motor, so hopefully it is just a hose or clamp or something easy to fix. Start above the puddle and feel the fittings and hoses and see if you can find a wet spot. Don't panic, your "bargain" may be the best investment you ever made! Dont' give up easy

[MightyMothra]

Thanks! I have determined I'll need to replace the water pump and from what I gather it's going to require the timing belt gets pulled and replaced as well. Bought the parts and am sitting here staring at the car and am a little overwhelmed at the moment although I do like a challenge. Are there any special tools that I am going to need to get this job done? I do love the little car I suppose. And yes - I do blame the previous owner!

[Daniel]

No special tool except maybe something to hold the cam gears in position.

You need to jack or support from top the engine since you have to remove the right engine mount bracket to do t-belt job.

Note the position of the old water pump so you can install the new one at the same angle. The water pump is eccentric and although the belt tension is adjusted by the automatic tensioner on the 2.0 (unlike motor 1.6DOHC) the angular position of the pump still plays on the tension of the belt.

Take your time and enjoy!

[benzino]

If you are confident, I would very strongly recommend pulling off the oil pan and cleaning it out. These motors sludge up if the oil changes aren't regular and the sludge can block the oil pickup starving the head.
It's annoying because you have just changed the oil, but it's even more annoying having to replace an oil starved head...

[woo99SE]

So what was causing the knock sound?
make 100% you failed to see the new fresh oil on the dipstick. if it took a long time to flow down the crankcase there is something wrong. oil should be down there as soon as you pour it in. may be 1 or 2 secs and that to me is too long. you can use Marvel Mystery oil if you like. I've used it and its very good stuff. same as sea foam but a lot cheaper that SF. MMO is a detergent/lubricant that works slowly so nothing gets loose and clogs up somewhere.

[MightyMothra]

So what was causing the knock sound?
make 100% you failed to see the new fresh oil on the dipstick. if it took a long time to flow down the crankcase there is something wrong. oil should be down there as soon as you pour it in. may be 1 or 2 secs and that to me is too long. you can use Marvel Mystery oil if you like. I've used it and its very good stuff. same as sea foam but a lot cheaper that SF. MMO is a detergent/lubricant that works slowly so nothing gets loose and clogs up somewhere.

I am sure there wasn't oil on the dipstick after idling for a few minutes...checked it multiple times...but now it's at the proper level...so I will never know why it took so long to get into the pan. The pan was spotless, and the filter new. I made a new gasket when the pan was pulled, and it's finally not leaking oil

I realized the "knock" that progressively got much louder and thus easier to identify (ended up sounding like corn popping!) was the water pump which is now going to be replaced.

I don't know if I want to mess with pulling the timing belt off, I have to do this work in the street in front of the house as I don't have a garage or driveway and so I need to be quick about it... ugh.

[Daniel]

Hi MightyMothra,
Glad you stay tuned!

If I had your car I would go for a oil flush like woo99SE suggested.

For changing your water pump you need to remove t-belt stuff before reaching it.
BTW when the water pump stops the teeth of the timing belt breaks and the motor follows the same path.

Labor time:
~1.8h "standardized" time at dealer facility.
-took me ~7h "all-in" for my first 1.6DOHC distribution change (in the garden/not all wanted tools/...)

Should you need tech manual let us know.

Hope this will not discourage you.

[MightyMothra]

Have been fighting the right side engine mount for some time. I would like suggestions on if propping the engine via a jack and plywood under the oil pan is enough support for this water pump replacement. Previous owner broke off the bolts on the engine mount and just capped them with nuts, bolts are all different sizes and the thread is hanging up on the engine mount. Might call it a night over here (it's 10pm and am working in the street)...but would appreciate any advice you can offer as to supporting the engine and getting the stupid engine mount pried free.

Thanks again!

[Daniel]

You may support the engine via a jack and plywood under the oil pan.

About water pump I was lucky enough to be able to replace it without having to remove cam gears and rear distribution carter. Thanks to hot temperature this day the plastic was soft enough to be bend allowing space to remove & place water pump. But this is not the recommended way.
And it will depend of the shape of rear carter you have in your model.




What's wrong with your engine mount?