I have come to a complete stand still with the car. I bought a new house out of town and have been trying to finish the old one to sell it. The new place is on 5acres and has a shed with 3 phase power so I will be setting up a new workshop before continuing on the build.
FYI the uprated oilpump arrived from Regal... but after a person in the Astra Mk2 forums with a similar spec engine had an uprated pump fail. I have decided to replace it with the Z20LET Oil Pump which is stronger and better suited to the HP I expect to get. For those who don't know the LET pump bolts on but you have to modify the oil pickup pipe.. there are people on the Vauxhall MIG forums that can make and supply them.
Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Why would you need z20let oil pump?! C20LET/C20XE has the same oil pump, and guys are making over 350HP on stock C20LET/C20XE oil pump...
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Yes the C20LET and the C20XE Oil pumps are the same. But the Z20LET are better standard. The XE pump can and do fail... I'd say Vauxhall/Opel knew this and changed the pump design for the Z20LET engines.mr_g wrote:Why would you need z20let oil pump?! C20LET/C20XE has the same oil pump, and guys are making over 350HP on stock C20LET/C20XE oil pump...
Standard C20XE Pump
Standard Z20LET Pump
Over reving or oil problems etc you can get a hand full of bits.
SDB can supply uprated internal gear that is steel and stronger for the Original XE pump. http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Main.htm
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Recently started the engine build after so many years the parts finally get put in their home.
First off I had to machine the Z20LET oil pump to match the standard so the front backing plate behind the cam belt fitted correctly.
The other oil mod is to the oil feed from the head to sump.
Quote from SBD: The oil feed to the head can get blocked up and most specialists such as SBD modify this area. Basically, the oil feed consists of a ball-bearing device which gets stuck so it's removed, the hole blocked up with abung, through which a 3/32 inch hole is drilled - the head doesn't need much oil in these engines.
It was a good move to do this... when I removed the valve it was blocked up anyway with crud.
On the weekend I started the bottom end assembly.
First I fitted the bottom end Main Studs ARP Kit (#209-5401).
Then assembled the WOSSNER Pistons to the TOGA Steel Rods with ARP 2000 Rod Bolts.
Then after checking the mains and rods clearance (2 thou we are running) I tightened it all together.
I finished the gated sump which started off as a series of galleries that slowed the oil down as it sloshed away from the pickup but then I changed the design to have 4 "trap doors" that shut and open depending on the direction of the car to keep the oil around the pickup.
This is bolts into the sump on 2 tags I welded in... rather than onto the windage tray other designs have.
The door is a Hasp and Staple you would find on your tool box. The 'door opening' I just opened them up to about 20mm now that I have the 'doors' fitted to stop the flow away from the pickup.
Still just have to clean it up a little and a few of my Ali welds are a bit ugly but a few mins with a die grinder will make them look neater... not that it matters in the sump.
Then I fitted the head and first off put in the ARP Head studs and WISECO MLS Headgasket.
When I dropped the head on I remembered to check for possible problems with the placement of the rivets that hold the gasket together... and yep there was one bugger.
Quick remove and drill and it is gone. It may have not been an issue but I have heard of people having problems.
So head is now tightened down and ready and waiting for the next job.
First off I had to machine the Z20LET oil pump to match the standard so the front backing plate behind the cam belt fitted correctly.
The other oil mod is to the oil feed from the head to sump.
Quote from SBD: The oil feed to the head can get blocked up and most specialists such as SBD modify this area. Basically, the oil feed consists of a ball-bearing device which gets stuck so it's removed, the hole blocked up with abung, through which a 3/32 inch hole is drilled - the head doesn't need much oil in these engines.
It was a good move to do this... when I removed the valve it was blocked up anyway with crud.
On the weekend I started the bottom end assembly.
First I fitted the bottom end Main Studs ARP Kit (#209-5401).
Then assembled the WOSSNER Pistons to the TOGA Steel Rods with ARP 2000 Rod Bolts.
Then after checking the mains and rods clearance (2 thou we are running) I tightened it all together.
I finished the gated sump which started off as a series of galleries that slowed the oil down as it sloshed away from the pickup but then I changed the design to have 4 "trap doors" that shut and open depending on the direction of the car to keep the oil around the pickup.
This is bolts into the sump on 2 tags I welded in... rather than onto the windage tray other designs have.
The door is a Hasp and Staple you would find on your tool box. The 'door opening' I just opened them up to about 20mm now that I have the 'doors' fitted to stop the flow away from the pickup.
Still just have to clean it up a little and a few of my Ali welds are a bit ugly but a few mins with a die grinder will make them look neater... not that it matters in the sump.
Then I fitted the head and first off put in the ARP Head studs and WISECO MLS Headgasket.
When I dropped the head on I remembered to check for possible problems with the placement of the rivets that hold the gasket together... and yep there was one bugger.
Quick remove and drill and it is gone. It may have not been an issue but I have heard of people having problems.
So head is now tightened down and ready and waiting for the next job.
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Bolted together some more of the engine ready for the next stage.
Fitted LET oil pump, new cambelt idler pulleys, new hydraulic lifters, Risse camshafts, vernier cam pulleys and alloy alternator pulley on the crank.
Fitted the Flywheel and clutch with ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit 209-2801.
I read the STD flat flywheel is 7.4kg, so they spun it down to 5.5kg's which is a pretty nice weight for what I am doing with it and built a nice puck clutch which should give a great grip with an uprated clutch plate.
The engine is now complete as I can do and hanging on the engine crane ready for it's insert into the car.
11hp Opel... finally found a good use for a ride on other than the mundane and normal.
Fitted LET oil pump, new cambelt idler pulleys, new hydraulic lifters, Risse camshafts, vernier cam pulleys and alloy alternator pulley on the crank.
Fitted the Flywheel and clutch with ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit 209-2801.
I read the STD flat flywheel is 7.4kg, so they spun it down to 5.5kg's which is a pretty nice weight for what I am doing with it and built a nice puck clutch which should give a great grip with an uprated clutch plate.
The engine is now complete as I can do and hanging on the engine crane ready for it's insert into the car.
11hp Opel... finally found a good use for a ride on other than the mundane and normal.
Last edited by ant0ny on Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
The last 2 post brings everyone just about up to date with the car.
FYI I fixed some dead pic links as well.
FYI I fixed some dead pic links as well.
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
I love the last one........ car being towed by a lawn tractor! priceless!
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Sorry for not updating this for a while...
After putting the engine back in the car I had to work through a few small problems as you always do. I added a second fan as I suspect this baby may need some extra cooling so I have one fan controled by the LINK Ecu and one by the temp sensor in the radiator.
The other problem was a leaking rear main seal. I used a STD seal from Holden but it hasnt taken up on the crank.
After the engine was running for a week or two I got my remote filter and oil cooler connected and oil pressure is now running at a more reasonable pressure and all looks and sounds good. Driving it is a blast and it's very quick... still not reving it past 4 -5k rpm as I am running on the old engine map but saying that it just gets up and goes like the clappers can't wait to get it on the dyno but that will be a little while away.
The oil cooler setup was a challenge getting the takeoff from the oil pump to be neat and tidy aand not protrude into the wheel arch so a little work went into making a oil line setup that missed everything and hugged the engine.
Still have an oil leak from the rear main oil seal it just hasn't taken up so I bought a new seal from the UK, a Genuine Victor Reinz rear oil seal which I hope will takeup... so one weekend I'll drop the box out and replace it.
I took some OpelAUS guys for a run around the block. Youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... RbQYZzfQ5M
Update few weeks ago:
I recently returned from a "Holiday" which comprised of me playing with the Opel for a week.
The aim was to get the distributor removed and replace with Cam Shaft sensore and 4 coil packs... things didn't go to plan but there is a happy ending.
Dyno day 1 started with more problems than you could imagine.
What you would think would be an easy thing turned out to be a major pain in the ass. The Cam sensor I got is the same as Calibras run and not thinking I didn't chase any info. Well after looking for wiring loom diagrams, talking to Holden (which was no help) I found some info from the boys on the Astra Mk2 forum. The next morning as I was driving out of Macas with a coffee and there was a White Cali parked accross the road... so I knocked on the guys door and he let me look at the setup which thankfully was the same so I was able to confirm the wiring before we started it... oh and by the way those sensores are $380 from Holden.
So after sorting the wiring out we finally got to the car to run but it was now sunset.
Dyno day 2 which became even bigger problems than the previous.
After starting with 150Hp we went backwards chasing problems that went there... changing coils, plugs, leads etc etc etc. It dawned on us the catalytic converter maybe blocked... and yes maybe it was so but by now it was hard just to start the car so a push onto the hoist and removal showed it was half blocked and starting to brake up. So quick smack with a bit of pipe and bolted it together.
It started first piston up... few runs later we had 160 Hp at the wheels. Time has run out again but was good to end a frustrating day with a big smile.
Dyno day 3 a big day with some gains and some more small problems.
Things where going well but when hitting the rev limiter the alternator belt sometimes jumps off. I removed the alternator and fitted a larger pulley to slow it down but this didn't completely fix it, it would still sometimes jump off if you hit the limitter very hard. I will need to look at fixing this at some time.
The final Hp ended up at 167.5 Hp @ wheels with 795 lbs of tractive effort.
I was hoping for over 170 but this is close given if you say front wheel drive looses 25% through the drive train it is about 200Bhp at the flywheel and I have straight cut gears and diff which looses less power than a STD gearbox. I was also reminded that the extractor design was for max torque not max hp as we never intended to run these internals... I only got them because they where cheap from a guy who needed to sell them.
So Julius Performance designed the extractors for 200Bhp and max tourque and I guess this seems to be what we got. The graph shows we are making at 80km/h in 5th gear 100Hp @ wheels so I need a taller diff ratio now.
Youtube video of it on the dyno. http://youtu.be/mWrF3KhWr7g
Upto date:
Last few weeks I started tidying up things after the tune. First was to remake my cold air box setup with some 100mm silicone tube instead of the old one I had.
As you can see I am still using the V8 Holden Commodore coilpacs and leads... this will be my next little job.
I re machined the crank pulley V deeper as well and refitted it... this may stop it chucking alternator belts off when I hit the rev limiter.
While working out the best way to make the coilpac bracket I also pulled off the cam shaft sensor to just check if the sensor finger was tightened on the cam shaft and I was surprised in the amount of oil sitting in the cover.
I looked at the distributor and it had a small shaft that goes into the center hole which blocks it but now with the sensor finger doesn't have anything like that.
In the process of looking at the original distributor and looking at the shaft that fits into the camshaft a light bulb went off in my head
I pulled the shaft out and hack sawed it through where the roll pin was. I walk next door to my neighbors lathe and turned down the end till it fitted flush in the cam.
So now the cam sensor finger holds it in place... another job done.
After that distraction I got back to the coil pacs zip tied to the tappet cover.
I fabricated a bracket and turned up some spacers... tonight I finished off the coil pack bracket and fit up. The bracket is 3mm aluminum and spaced off the cam sensor housing and the "lifting point" on the backside of the head.
I used a set of STD Calibra plug leads here but they don't fit the coils very well... the rubber seal is too loose... so I will get a new set made up soon.
After putting the engine back in the car I had to work through a few small problems as you always do. I added a second fan as I suspect this baby may need some extra cooling so I have one fan controled by the LINK Ecu and one by the temp sensor in the radiator.
The other problem was a leaking rear main seal. I used a STD seal from Holden but it hasnt taken up on the crank.
After the engine was running for a week or two I got my remote filter and oil cooler connected and oil pressure is now running at a more reasonable pressure and all looks and sounds good. Driving it is a blast and it's very quick... still not reving it past 4 -5k rpm as I am running on the old engine map but saying that it just gets up and goes like the clappers can't wait to get it on the dyno but that will be a little while away.
The oil cooler setup was a challenge getting the takeoff from the oil pump to be neat and tidy aand not protrude into the wheel arch so a little work went into making a oil line setup that missed everything and hugged the engine.
Still have an oil leak from the rear main oil seal it just hasn't taken up so I bought a new seal from the UK, a Genuine Victor Reinz rear oil seal which I hope will takeup... so one weekend I'll drop the box out and replace it.
I took some OpelAUS guys for a run around the block. Youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... RbQYZzfQ5M
Update few weeks ago:
I recently returned from a "Holiday" which comprised of me playing with the Opel for a week.
The aim was to get the distributor removed and replace with Cam Shaft sensore and 4 coil packs... things didn't go to plan but there is a happy ending.
Dyno day 1 started with more problems than you could imagine.
What you would think would be an easy thing turned out to be a major pain in the ass. The Cam sensor I got is the same as Calibras run and not thinking I didn't chase any info. Well after looking for wiring loom diagrams, talking to Holden (which was no help) I found some info from the boys on the Astra Mk2 forum. The next morning as I was driving out of Macas with a coffee and there was a White Cali parked accross the road... so I knocked on the guys door and he let me look at the setup which thankfully was the same so I was able to confirm the wiring before we started it... oh and by the way those sensores are $380 from Holden.
So after sorting the wiring out we finally got to the car to run but it was now sunset.
Dyno day 2 which became even bigger problems than the previous.
After starting with 150Hp we went backwards chasing problems that went there... changing coils, plugs, leads etc etc etc. It dawned on us the catalytic converter maybe blocked... and yes maybe it was so but by now it was hard just to start the car so a push onto the hoist and removal showed it was half blocked and starting to brake up. So quick smack with a bit of pipe and bolted it together.
It started first piston up... few runs later we had 160 Hp at the wheels. Time has run out again but was good to end a frustrating day with a big smile.
Dyno day 3 a big day with some gains and some more small problems.
Things where going well but when hitting the rev limiter the alternator belt sometimes jumps off. I removed the alternator and fitted a larger pulley to slow it down but this didn't completely fix it, it would still sometimes jump off if you hit the limitter very hard. I will need to look at fixing this at some time.
The final Hp ended up at 167.5 Hp @ wheels with 795 lbs of tractive effort.
I was hoping for over 170 but this is close given if you say front wheel drive looses 25% through the drive train it is about 200Bhp at the flywheel and I have straight cut gears and diff which looses less power than a STD gearbox. I was also reminded that the extractor design was for max torque not max hp as we never intended to run these internals... I only got them because they where cheap from a guy who needed to sell them.
So Julius Performance designed the extractors for 200Bhp and max tourque and I guess this seems to be what we got. The graph shows we are making at 80km/h in 5th gear 100Hp @ wheels so I need a taller diff ratio now.
Youtube video of it on the dyno. http://youtu.be/mWrF3KhWr7g
Upto date:
Last few weeks I started tidying up things after the tune. First was to remake my cold air box setup with some 100mm silicone tube instead of the old one I had.
As you can see I am still using the V8 Holden Commodore coilpacs and leads... this will be my next little job.
I re machined the crank pulley V deeper as well and refitted it... this may stop it chucking alternator belts off when I hit the rev limiter.
While working out the best way to make the coilpac bracket I also pulled off the cam shaft sensor to just check if the sensor finger was tightened on the cam shaft and I was surprised in the amount of oil sitting in the cover.
I looked at the distributor and it had a small shaft that goes into the center hole which blocks it but now with the sensor finger doesn't have anything like that.
In the process of looking at the original distributor and looking at the shaft that fits into the camshaft a light bulb went off in my head
I pulled the shaft out and hack sawed it through where the roll pin was. I walk next door to my neighbors lathe and turned down the end till it fitted flush in the cam.So now the cam sensor finger holds it in place... another job done.
After that distraction I got back to the coil pacs zip tied to the tappet cover.
I fabricated a bracket and turned up some spacers... tonight I finished off the coil pack bracket and fit up. The bracket is 3mm aluminum and spaced off the cam sensor housing and the "lifting point" on the backside of the head.
I used a set of STD Calibra plug leads here but they don't fit the coils very well... the rubber seal is too loose... so I will get a new set made up soon.
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Dyno Sheet:
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
"Three steps forward and one step back"
All looked good for next year... till a few days ago it started crunching 2nd gear to the point I just shift from 1st to 3rd. I used to get this from time to time but I blamed myself.
So checked the clutch cable and adjusted it and it is fine and doesn't crunch into reverse. So suspecting it is just the syncro I changed the oil and yes there is a gold tinge to the oil... hmmm so I have managed to destroy a syncro... not bad as that syncro is an original 1986 part that has been in amungst close ration gears since 1990 and done some 40+ rallies and equal amount of khanacross plus a few autocross... not to mention the amount of K's as a daily driver in two body shells.
I have a full set of F20 spare syncro's so I will have to swap them out before the next season... but I was wondering if anyone knows ab out the 2 types of syncro's mentioned in this MIG forum post.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines- ... 8-f16.html
Maybe there is a upgrade from the factory of from a later box that happens to fit?
All looked good for next year... till a few days ago it started crunching 2nd gear to the point I just shift from 1st to 3rd. I used to get this from time to time but I blamed myself.
So checked the clutch cable and adjusted it and it is fine and doesn't crunch into reverse. So suspecting it is just the syncro I changed the oil and yes there is a gold tinge to the oil... hmmm so I have managed to destroy a syncro... not bad as that syncro is an original 1986 part that has been in amungst close ration gears since 1990 and done some 40+ rallies and equal amount of khanacross plus a few autocross... not to mention the amount of K's as a daily driver in two body shells.
I have a full set of F20 spare syncro's so I will have to swap them out before the next season... but I was wondering if anyone knows ab out the 2 types of syncro's mentioned in this MIG forum post.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines- ... 8-f16.html
Maybe there is a upgrade from the factory of from a later box that happens to fit?
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
Ok where to start. I have my box back together and in the car.
What I can tell... well anyone who may care... is that my Quaife gearset uses F16 early type synchro's. Not saying Quaife are wrong (Quaife told me my F16 gearset is F10 and uses Synchro) at this stage but given my gearset has a different identification of the F10 in RallyMarshal (Astra Mk2 Forum) gearset... I am having my doubts till I can actually see a set for myself.
Just to clarify:
RallyMarshal F10 Quaife e.g. gearset identification is E-5C1-05
My F16 Quaife e.g. gearset identification is E-3C1-05
F10 and F16 may share the same synchro's but I can't find evidence to support this to date.
I used second hand early type Holden Camira/Vauxhall Cavalier/Opel Ascona 4speed synchro's to fix my box. 5th gear synchro I got from a Daewoo gearbox.
I have though got a supplier that can reproduce the synchro's for my box in brass at a reasonable cost. So if indeed the F10 synchro's are the same then I can supply them to anyone once I get a set for myself and test the quality. The set is the full 5spd set.
What I can tell... well anyone who may care... is that my Quaife gearset uses F16 early type synchro's. Not saying Quaife are wrong (Quaife told me my F16 gearset is F10 and uses Synchro) at this stage but given my gearset has a different identification of the F10 in RallyMarshal (Astra Mk2 Forum) gearset... I am having my doubts till I can actually see a set for myself.
Just to clarify:
RallyMarshal F10 Quaife e.g. gearset identification is E-5C1-05
My F16 Quaife e.g. gearset identification is E-3C1-05
F10 and F16 may share the same synchro's but I can't find evidence to support this to date.
I used second hand early type Holden Camira/Vauxhall Cavalier/Opel Ascona 4speed synchro's to fix my box. 5th gear synchro I got from a Daewoo gearbox.
I have though got a supplier that can reproduce the synchro's for my box in brass at a reasonable cost. So if indeed the F10 synchro's are the same then I can supply them to anyone once I get a set for myself and test the quality. The set is the full 5spd set.
Last edited by ant0ny on Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Opel Kadett GSi Group A Rally Replica
I installed my new incar 1080p camera... I cobbled this together and used the internal mic for the first test.
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I5p0hWgKew
The road is wet and the tyres are as hard as nails... so listen to the wheel spin
Got my RAM roll cage mount.
I turned up a holder to fix the bullet cam onto the RAM Mount.
This the camera I have http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2012/7/5/a ... t-cam.html very happy so far.
Camera: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI ... 2693912473
Mount: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RAM-B-108U-R ... 53ec9d389e
Has wired remote and internal mic but also has place for external mic and I'm just waiting for mine to arrive.
Youtube: http://youtu.be/O4Eh8dPpuDo
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I5p0hWgKew
The road is wet and the tyres are as hard as nails... so listen to the wheel spin
Got my RAM roll cage mount.
I turned up a holder to fix the bullet cam onto the RAM Mount.
This the camera I have http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2012/7/5/a ... t-cam.html very happy so far.
Camera: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI ... 2693912473
Mount: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RAM-B-108U-R ... 53ec9d389e
Has wired remote and internal mic but also has place for external mic and I'm just waiting for mine to arrive.
Youtube: http://youtu.be/O4Eh8dPpuDo