turbo 1.5 lanos probs

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woo_sleeper
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turbo 1.5 lanos probs

Post by woo_sleeper »

guys my car sputters when i try to hit full throttle, i got a t25 2.0 inj man boost controller dsm intercooler and blitz bov i didnt install chjeck valves or change my fuel pump
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Post by Audacity Racing »

you getting a cel?
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Post by richardmatalon »

you need to install check valves in the map sensor line, what is happening is that the map sensor on our cars is 1 bar meaning it can only read in vacum, it can't read positive manifold pressures, just put check valves in the line and don't allow the map sensor to read boost, or u can buy an s-afc and that interrupts the signal from the map sensor and moddifies it and sends it to the ecu, the check valves are cheaper though. u can get them off of an old carb setup at ur local scrap yard or u should be able to buy them at ur local parts shop. you might want to clear the check enigne code, u can do this by reseting the ecu through an obd 2 code reader or by disconnecting the battery and taking out the fuse for the ecu. hop this helps.
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tango
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Post by tango »

OH SH!T. Sleeper...what you have is a damaged MAP sensor. SAME thing happened to me. My advice is not to use check valves unless they are specifically intended for turbo applications. Forget the bullsh!t fish tank things that people tend to suggest. Those will fail and give you symptoms like you're describing. Better yet, go out and get a 2- or 3-bar MAP sensor. Good luck.
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Post by tango »

Audacityracing wrote:you getting a cel?
When my MAP sensor got hit it didn't give a CEL at any time. However one I REMOVED the turbo it gave a CEL all the time.
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Post by woo_sleeper »

Audacityracing wrote:you getting a cel?
this is wat happenes if i gradually accel and hit 3to5psi the car boosts realy slow if i hit full throttle the car boggs and i get a cell and my RPM goes off and doesnt work again till the cell goes off and then the rmp works again
woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

tango wrote:OH SH!T. Sleeper...what you have is a damaged MAP sensor. SAME thing happened to me. My advice is not to use check valves unless they are specifically intended for turbo applications. Forget the bullsh!t fish tank things that people tend to suggest. Those will fail and give you symptoms like you're describing. Better yet, go out and get a 2- or 3-bar MAP sensor. Good luck.
i dnt know if the Map is damadged cz when i disconect the inlet pipe to the intake and run the car the cell light doesnt come on or do any boggin at all car runs good, i was thinkin of using a 1 k zener diode on the map to ground any +ve voltage being sent back
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Post by MMamdouh »

maybe it is not damaged yet... it is just confused due to the boost.

are you using check valves?? those could be faulty and eventually will damage your MAP sensor, you can always get the car scaned to see the DTC you got and be sure of the problem.

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Brian5475E
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Post by Brian5475E »

Sounds like the MAp is reading boost. When it does that it basically shuts the engine down till the boost is gone
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Post by DomWoo »

are you giving it to much gas?? my friends car was boggin and some times wouldnt run because is safc II was give it to much gas
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Post by ubuyau »

Sounds like no check valves on the MAP signal. Had the same problem! Itll throw CEL's once it sees boost....

The aquarium shop check valves work fine - im using them with no problems - T a couple of them in (i have 3 valves and running 6psi) and you'll have smooth acceleration!

--Tim
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Post by tango »

ubuyau wrote:Sounds like no check valves on the MAP signal. Had the same problem! Itll throw CEL's once it sees boost....

The aquarium shop check valves work fine - im using them with no problems - T a couple of them in (i have 3 valves and running 6psi) and you'll have smooth acceleration!

--Tim
I had THREE on my car and they still failed to bleed properly. Get check valves designed for car use.
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Post by woo_sleeper »

guys this is soo sick !!!!, i changed my sparks plugs and sparks wires and used check valves and found a new prob ...... my distrib is only firein 3 plugs !!!! on top of that i keep hearing this clappin or ticking sound, wtf is happenin here ...
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Post by tango »

woo_sleeper wrote:guys this is soo sick !!!!, i changed my sparks plugs and sparks wires and used check valves and found a new prob ...... my distrib is only firein 3 plugs !!!! on top of that i keep hearing this clappin or ticking sound, wtf is happenin here ...
At what point are you measuring the spark? At the distibutor itself or at the end of the plug wire? I ask because it could be that the new plug wires are either faulty or aren't connected properly.

The ticking sound could be the non firing electrode arcing. This can be checked by shutting down the bonnet part way at night and looking for any light flashes. If the sound is the arcing then it would be a dead giveaway as to where the spark failure is occuring.
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woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

tango wrote:
woo_sleeper wrote:guys this is soo sick !!!!, i changed my sparks plugs and sparks wires and used check valves and found a new prob ...... my distrib is only firein 3 plugs !!!! on top of that i keep hearing this clappin or ticking sound, wtf is happenin here ...
At what point are you measuring the spark? At the distibutor itself or at the end of the plug wire? I ask because it could be that the new plug wires are either faulty or aren't connected properly.

The ticking sound could be the non firing electrode arcing. This can be checked by shutting down the bonnet part way at night and looking for any light flashes. If the sound is the arcing then it would be a dead giveaway as to where the spark failure is occuring.

i checked from the distri it makes the ticking sounds and i can see the arc's on 1-4 but nuthin comes from 2-3 !! , also a new thing i just found out , i have no oil watsoever in the car , have no clue Y ?, it had oil yesterday b4 i took the car out ? wats weird is no oil psi drop showed up in the stock cluster or in the aftermarket gauge
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