front speakers

[jez]

Hey all - whoevers idea this is is a real thinker! I got bored tonight and found the daewootech yahoogroup which led me here.. i had no idea other people were into Daewoo's!! woohoo I feel so at home..

Anyway, a few months ago i bought some 6.5" Boston Rally splits to put in my Lanos but found that the build-outs i had to make (of MDF) to clear the window mechanism were too big and the winder got caught up on it - that was before even putting the trim back on! So out they came and I ended up selling them to a mate.. I put some crappy 6" coaxials in there and have lived that way since.. but they're crap I'm just wondering what you guys recommend ? Basically the problem is that good speakers are too deep.. so what have you guys done to counter this ?

Maybe there's a speaker out there that fits perfectly ? preferably a 6/6.5" split... thanks for the help

Oh yeah, as a side note.. where did you guys run your amp power through the firewall ? I sliced the rubber grommet and ran it though the big hole in front of the driver (RHD).

[Nubira00]

try illusion audio if you can find them, or some made by DEI with the neodynium magnets on them, or the kenwood excelon dual mags

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

For power, I drilled a hole in the firewall and installed a rubber grommet to run the 0 guage power cable.
The power cable runs under the carpet along the driver side of the center hump down the middle of the car.
I ran the RCA cables on the opposite side of the center hump so there is no inducted noise from running the RCAs next to the power.

Remember, when installing a power stereo system with amplifiers, your best bet is to upgrade the following 3 wires:

1) Engine to body.
2) Body to battery netagive (ground / earth)
3) Alternator positive output to the battery positive post.

For this application, 4 guage is ideal for systems under 2000 watts RMS (not Max, Peak or PMPO)

Even on cars that aren't getting a stereo system, it is a good idea to upgrade these wires so you get brighter headlights and easier starting.

Remember to clean any/all paint from the areas where the ground bolts attach. Paint does not conduct electricity.

[l_BlakBear_l]

hehe i dont know much about how to install things. i just paid the people to do it. had them install my stereo, amp and subwoofer. 25 bucs. not too shabby pretty good deal. i put in sum 3.5 in alpines in the front. and 6.5 kenwoods in the back. my woofer is a 12 in sony explod with a lightning audio amp powering it. 900 watts. pioneers stereo. its all good. htinkin about upgrading to 2 woofers. but the damn car rattles so much, not sure if i even want to.

99 lanos

[TheGreatAndPowerfulOz]

hehe i dont know much about how to install things. i just paid the people to do it. had them install my stereo, amp and subwoofer. 25 bucs. not too shabby pretty good deal. i put in sum 3.5 in alpines in the front. and 6.5 kenwoods in the back. my woofer is a 12 in sony explod with a lightning audio amp powering it. 900 watts. pioneers stereo. its all good. htinkin about upgrading to 2 woofers. but the damn car rattles so much, not sure if i even want to.

99 lanos

If it rattles, take apart what is rattling and put in sound deadening.
All you have to do is stop the rattles.

Currently my car has no interior at all, apart from the driver's seat, as I am installing sound deadening. My installation is not typical, and is very extreme, and unnecessary for the average person's stereo set up.

However, I do suggest finding what is ratteling/buzzing, taking it apart and putting a little self adhesive weather stripping foam, so when you put things back together, they no longer buzz.

The tail and reverse lights are easy to take out, put in foam and reinstall. No more buzz from them. Put a piece of foam behind your rear license plate, that will help a lot, too.

The system I am building is 2200 watts RMS (about 5,000 watts max) and will be in competitions when it is finished.

I found a MUCH better place for running the power cable, but it involves removing the front fender that is on the same side of the car as the battery.
Above the fuse block is a big rubber grommet where the main wiring harness enters the car. It can be slit and the power cable run through it, then run foreward and it comes out of the round hole on the side of the engine compartment next to the front strut tower. Be VERY careful not to damage any other wires in the main wiring haarness when making a slit in the rubber grommet. Also make sure to use a grommet on the power cable where it comes through the hole to enter the engine compartment.