Turbo Optra - Now on tuned Haltech @ 225whp

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 5:03 pm

rr__kroz123 wrote:hey man do you have the measurements for the piping? T/B to FMIC.

And what size are the inlets of the FMIC? 2.5"

I'm going to do mine of aluminum.

I believe its 2.5", next time I go there or talk to the guy I will check for sure.

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:22 pm

UPDATE: I talked to the guy today. The charge piping and manifold is 304 stainless 2.5" from IC to TB and from turbo to IC. Turbo intake will be 3". Everything is being TIG welded.

ubuyau · Post by **ubuyau** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:46 pm

exist3nce wrote:UPDATE: I talked to the guy today. The charge piping and manifold is 304 stainless 2.5" from IC to TB and from turbo to IC. Turbo intake will be 3". Everything is being TIG welded.

TIG is good. Polish those pipes up to mirror finish and you'll be show car in no time

See my How to.

I did the new screamer dump pipe i got on the weekend with a little eletric rotary tool (dremel) since the shape and design of it was a little fiddly. Took a bit of time but comes up a treat! I love polished stainless now!

--Tim

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 5:13 pm

Its going slowly but surely...... heres some pics I took about 1.5 weeks ago while the forums were down. All hardware is installed as of now (not quite everything was hooked up in the pics). They are fooling around with my ECU and the Greddy Emanage now. The red BOV/WG scheme was switched for blue now lol. Due to how the spacing worked out, I'm going to have to loose my foglights and 1 radiator fan

I like how the welding and piping was done, and that manifold looks half decent lol.

Comments / Questions welcome! (even if its about something you don't like haha)

ubuyau · Post by **ubuyau** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:15 pm

Fantastic work!

That manifold is very tasty

Polish up your charge pipes and it'll be very nice!

Do you not have enough room even for a slimline fan?
Dont worry about losing your foggies

They're worth the sacrafice.

--Tim

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:11 pm

ubuyau wrote:Fantastic work!

That manifold is very tasty

Polish up your charge pipes and it'll be very nice!

Do you not have enough room even for a slimline fan?
Dont worry about losing your foggies They're worth the sacrafice.

--Tim

LOL tasty.... hopefully it will be TOASTY quite soon.

I don't think I will bother with polishing the charge pipes for now, need to get this back on the road ASAP.

If you are referring to the engine bay side of the radiator, no there is no room between the top of the WG and rad for even slim fans. There *might* be room on the other side of the rad for a smaller pusher fan tho.

Yah the fogs aren't that big a deal, with the HIDs the fogs hardly do anything anyways.

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 3:48 pm

So all hardware is 100% now. The EManage has been wired up (many thanks to Chris for ECU pinouts). They say they need to start it up and verify some of the signals with an oscilloscope to make sure they've got all the connections right. After that its onto dyno tuning! .......... almost done

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:58 am

Today they started it up and had it running for a while to analyze the signals. They say everything is OK except for the ignition timing signal. They didn't explain the specifics, but something along the lines of it beeing too weak and incompatible with the EManage. They are now building some sort of circuit to compensate for this problem (they have an electrical engineer working there specifically for things like this haha). More updates to follow....

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 3:02 pm

Make sure they setup emanage for the ignition pull-up style:

JP1 ignition pull-up on pins 2-3 (pullup to +VE rail)
JP2 ignition output - pins 2-3 output connected to +12V

Hope this helps

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:24 pm

GsiTurbo wrote:Make sure they setup emanage for the ignition pull-up style:

JP1 ignition pull-up on pins 2-3 (pullup to +VE rail)
JP2 ignition output - pins 2-3 output connected to +12V

Hope this helps

Thanks I will pass that on to them, but what exactly does that mean "pull-up style"?

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:03 pm

Most import ignition systems will have ECU ground the circuit (driver gets +12V when ign is on) to create spark discharge. On GM-Daewoo / Opel / Vauxhall / Holden etc its the opposite. Driver is grounded at all times, and ECU provides +12V when spark is required. This type is being commonly called as 'pull-up', as opposed to 'pull-down'.

This is why Chris made few MSD driver boxes, as they are not compatible with the pull-up style of ignition.

Tom

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:14 am

I don't know about the Optra Delphi system yet............... don't forget that Kinkyllama didn't need my "MSD Driver box" on his Forenza

You absolutely need it on a Lanos, Nubira, Leganza with the old "AC Delco" system.... but I've yet to analyse the ignition system on my Optra.

Perhaps if I get some time on the weekend here I will pull out the oscilliscope and check it out.

If they have an Electrical Engineer he should be able to fabricate a small circuit to compensate in a matter of minutes... the parts in my box are really cheap.... all in all... probably less than $3.00..... but it's the time to make a circuit board and the damned case probably cost me $12 or something like that.

Chris

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:23 am

Just looked at the Chevy Optra service manual (master manual for all GM vehicles) and it really doesn't say much.... I'm afraid the only way to know is to hook up the ocilliscope and check it out.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:26 am

Oh............. hmmmmm..... just thought of something...... if it does trigger like the Nubira/Lanos/Leganza then the trigger voltage is only +5V instead of +12V.... which could be a problem for some systems.

The easiest way to fix that is to install an OptoIsolator.... run the +5V signal on one side and give the other side a +12V signal..... the electrical engineer will know what I'm talking about.

For that matter..... he could use an inverter to make it a pull down instead of a pull up trigger.

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:17 pm

Thanks for info Chris! Did you by chance have a chance to check out the ignition system?

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Turbo Optra - Now on tuned Haltech @ 225whp

UPDATE

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