Hey GreatPowerfulOZ,
Was searchin' the forum and a year ago you had pics and how to on ground wiring, tried to click it but got nothin'...
was kind of wondering if you had the picks still...
thanx
GreatPowerfulOz led me your help.
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bluesheepbrian
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TheGreatAndPowerfulOz
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"GreatPowerfulOz led me your help."
I thought it was: "Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ear."
LOL
The pics were hosted on the web space of the ISP I used to have before I moved.
Unfortunately, I did not copy the pics off the server before closing the account.
I *MAY* possibly have the pics on floppy somewhere at home, but I do not think I do.
The best I can do is to retake the photos and upload them again, then edit my old post and put in the new picture addresses.
If you have any questions that I can answer via text without photos, I'd be happy to help with anything I can.
Cliff
I thought it was: "Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your ear."
LOL
The pics were hosted on the web space of the ISP I used to have before I moved.
Unfortunately, I did not copy the pics off the server before closing the account.
I *MAY* possibly have the pics on floppy somewhere at home, but I do not think I do.
The best I can do is to retake the photos and upload them again, then edit my old post and put in the new picture addresses.
If you have any questions that I can answer via text without photos, I'd be happy to help with anything I can.
Cliff
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TheGreatAndPowerfulOz
- All Powerful
- Posts: 2767
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2003 10:37 pm
- Location: Virginia, USA
- Contact:
Ok ... here is a compilation from other posts I have made about this subject:
-----
Grounding & power wire upgrades are a very good idea.
These upgrades provide less resistance for the electrical system.
The alternator does not have to work as hard to charge and maintain the battery's voltage levels.
The results of this upgrade are:
-Brighter headlights.
-Less headlight dimming with large stereo systems.
-Easier starting
-Stronger spark
-Better gas milage
-Possible increased HP output because the engine is running more efficiently.
The *ONLY* wires that are necessary for this upgrade are:
1) Battery negative to body
2) Body to engine block
There are no other grounds that are necessary for better performance or better lighting or a stereo system.
The positive connection that is necessary is:
1) Battery positive to alternator positive output
In the car audio world, that is referred to as the "Magic 3" or "Big 3".
Items used:
Six 4ga ring terminals with plastic sleeves. The should be less than $1.50 each.
Some people prefer these:
but they are more expensive and not as easy to install in some of the tight places where the wires are being attached.
10 ft of 4ga wire. I used welding cable from a local welding shop because it was only 60 cents per foot. You will have extra, but too much is better than too little.
This wire is VERY flexable, more so than power cable from car stereo shops. Be sure to get the kind called 'Flexaprene' which has a neoprene based cover.
If you want different colours, such as silver, blue, red, etc. you can use 4ga car stereo power cable available at car stereo shops.
Use a flat screwdriver & a hammer to start the crimp of the ring terminal, and then finish crimping it in a bench vice.
Solder the crimped ring terminal with flux core solder and heat the terminal and wire end with a propane torch because a soldering iron/gun will not get hot enough.
Remember, measure all your wire runs before you cut any of the cable to make sure you have the right length for each piece.
Also ... make sure you clean all the paint away from the grounding points on the body until they are shiney, bare metal and make sure the engine block ground point has been cleaned so it is shiney.
I used a dremel with a stone grinding bit to grind the paint away.
To locate a welding shop near you (in the US) go to www.superpages.com
In the 'Category' type in 'welding supply', then choose your city & state.
This will locate welding supply shops near you. Call them and ask if they carry 4ga flexable welding cable. If they do, then go buy some from them.
I had to call 3 shops before I found one that had the cable.
Any more questions.... just ask.
Remember: Do *NOT* connect the battery positive to the frame/body/case of the alternator, that is a ground and will short out the battery. ONLY connect it to the bolt on the back of the alternator that is the positive output. I will post new photos from under the hood of my car.
Cliff
-----
Grounding & power wire upgrades are a very good idea.
These upgrades provide less resistance for the electrical system.
The alternator does not have to work as hard to charge and maintain the battery's voltage levels.
The results of this upgrade are:
-Brighter headlights.
-Less headlight dimming with large stereo systems.
-Easier starting
-Stronger spark
-Better gas milage
-Possible increased HP output because the engine is running more efficiently.
The *ONLY* wires that are necessary for this upgrade are:
1) Battery negative to body
2) Body to engine block
There are no other grounds that are necessary for better performance or better lighting or a stereo system.
The positive connection that is necessary is:
1) Battery positive to alternator positive output
In the car audio world, that is referred to as the "Magic 3" or "Big 3".
Items used:
Six 4ga ring terminals with plastic sleeves. The should be less than $1.50 each.
Some people prefer these:
but they are more expensive and not as easy to install in some of the tight places where the wires are being attached.
10 ft of 4ga wire. I used welding cable from a local welding shop because it was only 60 cents per foot. You will have extra, but too much is better than too little.
This wire is VERY flexable, more so than power cable from car stereo shops. Be sure to get the kind called 'Flexaprene' which has a neoprene based cover.
If you want different colours, such as silver, blue, red, etc. you can use 4ga car stereo power cable available at car stereo shops.
Use a flat screwdriver & a hammer to start the crimp of the ring terminal, and then finish crimping it in a bench vice.
Solder the crimped ring terminal with flux core solder and heat the terminal and wire end with a propane torch because a soldering iron/gun will not get hot enough.
Remember, measure all your wire runs before you cut any of the cable to make sure you have the right length for each piece.
Also ... make sure you clean all the paint away from the grounding points on the body until they are shiney, bare metal and make sure the engine block ground point has been cleaned so it is shiney.
I used a dremel with a stone grinding bit to grind the paint away.
To locate a welding shop near you (in the US) go to www.superpages.com
In the 'Category' type in 'welding supply', then choose your city & state.
This will locate welding supply shops near you. Call them and ask if they carry 4ga flexable welding cable. If they do, then go buy some from them.
I had to call 3 shops before I found one that had the cable.
Any more questions.... just ask.
Remember: Do *NOT* connect the battery positive to the frame/body/case of the alternator, that is a ground and will short out the battery. ONLY connect it to the bolt on the back of the alternator that is the positive output. I will post new photos from under the hood of my car.
Cliff