Not yet..
Here's a video if you want to take a look at the monitor and see if you can tell anything from that. I know I need a tune definitely.
http://www.silencefading.com/bah/100_1924.mov
Should I have 45 degrees of spark advance at 3000 rpm?
Sunbird hybrid
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
I advanced the intake cam tonight by 7.8 degrees (1 tooth) and WOW is it running better. Doesn't have a heck of a lot of bottom end, but once it hits the power band, it feels pretty good. I'm sure there's room for improvement with tuning, but it's way better than before and I'm starting to get a little more happy with it.
I'll have a video up shortly.
I'll have a video up shortly.
It really does feel good when it hits the power band! I'm happy with it and it's not even broken in yet. One thing I am not happy with is the auto trans.. I ordered a Getrag/Mucie 5 speed trans from a turbo sunbird and it arrived today. I'm excited, but I need to get all of the other parts that go around it. lol
As an update.. The latest is that I put the daewoo injectors back in and it actually feels a little better during acceleration. The video above was with sunbird injectors.. So I'll have to get a vid with the daewoos when I get the chance to see if there really is a change.
Right now I'm just waiting for a better paying job so I can get started in part of my career path and start gathering parts for that lovely boost I crave. I'm also researching my anus off about different engine management solutions and what I should do.
I also realized that it's going to be a pain in the arse to change the alternator if it ever decides to kick the bucket... Will require take the entire intake manifold off most likely.. Just for an alt.. Funnyyyy........... But I've seen my dad deal with worse, so I guess I shouldn't complain. Hopefully when I get the manual trans in, it will take up way less room compared to the TH125 auto in there now and allow for an easier alt change.
Right now I'm just waiting for a better paying job so I can get started in part of my career path and start gathering parts for that lovely boost I crave. I'm also researching my anus off about different engine management solutions and what I should do.
I also realized that it's going to be a pain in the arse to change the alternator if it ever decides to kick the bucket... Will require take the entire intake manifold off most likely.. Just for an alt.. Funnyyyy........... But I've seen my dad deal with worse, so I guess I shouldn't complain. Hopefully when I get the manual trans in, it will take up way less room compared to the TH125 auto in there now and allow for an easier alt change.
Hey Decipherex, I have been following some of your stuff for a while now. I got the idea a few years ago talking to some people on the old j-body.org website. We were looking at getting all the parts from the UK from the C20LET motors over there, but found out that shipping would kill. After some more research, found out that the Daewoo uses the same stuff as the sunbirds except for the head(UK engines use Cosworth heads and are prone to being porous)I am going to be doing a T22SED engine with a turbo hoping to push out 400 crank horsepower with 22-25 PSI of boost. Anyway, it will be a learning process I am sure. How is your tuning coming out? I read where you said that you advanced the camshaft and lost some low end power. Most of the time, when you advance the camshaft, you get an increase in cylinder pressure at lower RPM's, and make less power up top and the RPM range usually get shorter too but only by a couple of hundred RPM's. Are you sure that you didn't retard the cam instead? That would explain the power increase in the upper RPM range. Also, I have seen some people get nice gains by advancing the intake cam, and retarding the exhaust cam(by the same amounts). The intake valves opening earlier and the exhaust valves opening later allows more cylinder pressure to build and generally gives better overall engine performance as long as the camshaft is matched for it(ie. the valve operlap is small so compression does not escape, and the vavle open duration is sufficient for cylinder filling). Anyways, let me know how stuff turns out for you. I will be starting some stuff here pretty soon. Thanks, Paul M
Well, tuning hasn't begun as of yet and probably won't begin until the motor is pulled and rebuilt with forged pistons, steel rods, etc.. for turbo.
What I had originally done was put some QED cams that I bought (they have higher duration and about the same lift as stock) in the head. They made the power band come on at about 3700-4000 RPM, which was quite annoying for street driving. Especially because once it got to that point, it would shift and come back out of the power range. So, then I decided to retard the exhaust cam in hopes to decrease overlap. This helped quite a bit, but it still wasn't where it felt good. So.. I started talking to PontiacJeff and he suggested I run one of the QED cams (they are both same spec, both intake and exhaust) in the exhaust side and the stock cam in the intake side. So I tried this and ended up selling the other QED cam to him as it helped with his powerband on his turbo setup. I fired the car up and took it for a drive after doing that and it was spot on with some better top end I believe than stock. But I haven't experienced one of these engines stock because I had put the cams in right away when the engine was first built. (I didn't know nearly as much then as I know now.) So now that is where it stands and I'm happy with it for the time being. But it will be much better when turbo. I would do a T22, because they are a bit stronger and more displacement, but I already have two of these 2.0 motors, so I might as well just go with that. I'm going to be looking for about 250-300hp @ the crank, with a manual trans swap as well when I go turbo. I won't be looking to run any more than say 13-15 psi. But 250 should be achieved with some better porting of the head and the correct turbo at around 10-12 psi.
I am going to try to get Tuner C.A.T.S to decipher the code on the stock 2.0 ECM so I might be able to tune it. But if not, I was thinking megasquirt or a few other options I have in mind.
What are your thoughts and ideas on tuning these motors after transplanted into a sunbird?
And please do share what you are doing for the rear mount on the 2.2. I've never seen one before but I hear the bolt holes are either completely missing or moved.
What I had originally done was put some QED cams that I bought (they have higher duration and about the same lift as stock) in the head. They made the power band come on at about 3700-4000 RPM, which was quite annoying for street driving. Especially because once it got to that point, it would shift and come back out of the power range. So, then I decided to retard the exhaust cam in hopes to decrease overlap. This helped quite a bit, but it still wasn't where it felt good. So.. I started talking to PontiacJeff and he suggested I run one of the QED cams (they are both same spec, both intake and exhaust) in the exhaust side and the stock cam in the intake side. So I tried this and ended up selling the other QED cam to him as it helped with his powerband on his turbo setup. I fired the car up and took it for a drive after doing that and it was spot on with some better top end I believe than stock. But I haven't experienced one of these engines stock because I had put the cams in right away when the engine was first built. (I didn't know nearly as much then as I know now.) So now that is where it stands and I'm happy with it for the time being. But it will be much better when turbo. I would do a T22, because they are a bit stronger and more displacement, but I already have two of these 2.0 motors, so I might as well just go with that. I'm going to be looking for about 250-300hp @ the crank, with a manual trans swap as well when I go turbo. I won't be looking to run any more than say 13-15 psi. But 250 should be achieved with some better porting of the head and the correct turbo at around 10-12 psi.
I am going to try to get Tuner C.A.T.S to decipher the code on the stock 2.0 ECM so I might be able to tune it. But if not, I was thinking megasquirt or a few other options I have in mind.
What are your thoughts and ideas on tuning these motors after transplanted into a sunbird?
And please do share what you are doing for the rear mount on the 2.2. I've never seen one before but I hear the bolt holes are either completely missing or moved.
Hmm I nver herd of the missing bolt holes before. I was under the assumption that the T20 and T22 blocks were the same minus the deck height. If so then I willhave to figure something out. In the meantime however, I have decided to drop my overall expected output of the engine to 300 at the crank as well. This will save me time and money, as I can probably use the factory crank and rods with ARP fasteners to holdeverything together. As far as eengine management goes, I will probably either use a Sunbird turbo ECm and wiring harness(cause I have them both) or a megasquirt(cause 1 of the guys that I work with here at lexus has one and knows how to use/tune it) Decided on going with a TO4E 50 trim compressor with a .48 exhaust turbine and ball bearing center section for faster spool up time.
Hmm... That turbo should be nice. With ball bearing you could go to an even bigger turbo and still have it spool nice and quick.Big P wrote:Hmm I nver herd of the missing bolt holes before. I was under the assumption that the T20 and T22 blocks were the same minus the deck height. If so then I willhave to figure something out. In the meantime however, I have decided to drop my overall expected output of the engine to 300 at the crank as well. This will save me time and money, as I can probably use the factory crank and rods with ARP fasteners to holdeverything together. As far as eengine management goes, I will probably either use a Sunbird turbo ECm and wiring harness(cause I have them both) or a megasquirt(cause 1 of the guys that I work with here at lexus has one and knows how to use/tune it) Decided on going with a TO4E 50 trim compressor with a .48 exhaust turbine and ball bearing center section for faster spool up time.
If you're going to go with a turbo sunbird ECM, you're going to need to convert to distributor ignition and not DIS. It's unfortunately not as easy as just throwing the harness and ECU in, otherwise I would have had it done by now lol.
I think I am going megasquirt because a tech on megasquirt's forums says it should work with our different type of crank trigger wheel on the crank.