Still have no power.. need the car to test your guys HEADERS

[kinkyllama]

do you have a digicam? if so just make a crappy vid of the car and the sound. it doesnt have too look great just as long as we can see adn hear whats going on.

Not for awhile. . . I have one but it's broken and on backorder, then once I get it I gotta get a new cord.

[goldiegill]

pull off the silencer from the engine and try to start the car. it shall work if u gotta bad cat.

[daewoomofo]

do you have a digicam? if so just make a crappy vid of the car and the sound. it doesnt have too look great just as long as we can see adn hear whats going on.

Not for awhile. . . I have one but it's broken and on backorder, then once I get it I gotta get a new cord.

im sure one of your freinds has to have one, or a cell phone that does video

[exist3nce]

Ya a video would be really helpful in this case.

From the sounds of it, it has to be engine related, either fuel or ignition/timing. I still say you should also invest in a wideband O2 and OBD2 code reader. You might as well get both now if you plan to go turbo, as they are invaluable tuning and troubleshooting instruments if you plan to stay with stock ECU + piggyback. If you can, I would say bypass the SMT and MSD and so that you are back to completely stock ignition and fuel maps. You have to start by eliminating potential problems, and often enough its the aftermarket stuff that will do it.

[kinkyllama]

Ya a video would be really helpful in this case.

From the sounds of it, it has to be engine related, either fuel or ignition/timing. I still say you should also invest in a wideband O2 and OBD2 code reader. You might as well get both now if you plan to go turbo, as they are invaluable tuning and troubleshooting instruments if you plan to stay with stock ECU + piggyback. If you can, I would say bypass the SMT and MSD and so that you are back to completely stock ignition and fuel maps. You have to start by eliminating potential problems, and often enough its the aftermarket stuff that will do it.

I have a wideband, just don't wanna install it untill I put in my turbo exhaust.

And what would a code reader do other than tell me the codes? I already know what codes it's throwing, same ones as always.

Also the piggy back and DIS has been on there over 20k miles, I dont think they're the cause. Already went over every wire.

I'll see if I can find someone with a video thing, but I doubt any of my friends that don't live really far own one.

[PrecisionBoost]

A decent OBD2 reader will give you live data.... so it will tell you when the car is in closed loop, open loop or open loop-fault.

It will give you information for all the sensors and a decent model will allow you capture frames of data and replay them.

This way you can see if it's a timing issue or if one of the sensors is reading incorrectly.


One last thing....... does the weird raspy sound happen when the car is in neutral?

If it happens when the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed then the problem is not the tranny.

If it only happens when the tranny is engaged then it's either a tranny issue or it's an issue with the car under load.


As far as the wideband O2... the bungs are like $5 so I still say you should put it into your exhaust no matter whether your going to use it in the future or not.

If you had a shop install the cat they probably would have charged you like $10 to quickly drill a hole and weld in the bung.

Welding in a bung does not in any way make your exhaust unuseable.... once you switch to your other exhaust it's a simple as getting a $2 plug and screwing it into the bung to seal it off.

Additionally if you have the Wideband installed now it will be usefull when you get the turbo setup going.... it's not like your going to have to pull it out and reinstall it later.


I've given more than my two cents on installing the wideband... without further data there is no way to know what the problem is.

Frankly I don't think listening to the engine will help anything... you need solid data such as A/F and timing advance.


Imagine if you went to a dealership and some guy tried to troubleshoot your exact problem by listening to the engine.

Me... personally... I'd take it to the guy that had a $100,000 diagnostic computer that measured and analysed all the sensor data to give you information on why the car is running the way it is.

Do what you want.... you don't seem to need my help.

[kinkyllama]

A decent OBD2 reader will give you live data.... so it will tell you when the car is in closed loop, open loop or open loop-fault.

It will give you information for all the sensors and a decent model will allow you capture frames of data and replay them.

This way you can see if it's a timing issue or if one of the sensors is reading incorrectly.


One last thing....... does the weird raspy sound happen when the car is in neutral?

If it happens when the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed then the problem is not the tranny.

If it only happens when the tranny is engaged then it's either a tranny issue or it's an issue with the car under load.


As far as the wideband O2... the bungs are like $5 so I still say you should put it into your exhaust no matter whether your going to use it in the future or not.

If you had a shop install the cat they probably would have charged you like $10 to quickly drill a hole and weld in the bung.

Welding in a bung does not in any way make your exhaust unuseable.... once you switch to your other exhaust it's a simple as getting a $2 plug and screwing it into the bung to seal it off.

Additionally if you have the Wideband installed now it will be usefull when you get the turbo setup going.... it's not like your going to have to pull it out and reinstall it later.


I've given more than my two cents on installing the wideband... without further data there is no way to know what the problem is.

Frankly I don't think listening to the engine will help anything... you need solid data such as A/F and timing advance.


Imagine if you went to a dealership and some guy tried to troubleshoot your exact problem by listening to the engine.

Me... personally... I'd take it to the guy that had a $100,000 diagnostic computer that measured and analysed all the sensor data to give you information on why the car is running the way it is.

Do what you want.... you don't seem to need my help.

Alright, so what should I look for when buying an OBD2 reader?

Well the weird raspy thing at 2,700rpmd doesn't happen in neutural, rarley in first, and not always in 2nd. I think it's because the amount of gas applied and the resistance of a higher gear. The higher rpm noise happens no matter what.

I'll install the wideband, but it'll be awhile so I rather not wait for it. It's at someones house doing some work for me and they're really hard to get ahold of. Should I just have a shop hook one up and take a look at it or do you think the AFR will give enough info to figure something out? Cuz I'm pretty sure somethings happening with it, especially after tonight. I think the car started blowing black smoke at higher rpms...it may have done it before but I'm not sure.

[exist3nce]

For OBD readers you can either get a standalone unit, or a cable that attaches to your laptop with software.

I have this one here http://www.obd-2.com/

Its pretty good, not only does it read codes, but can also tell you your readings of any sensors connected to your ECU in realtime, and you can monitor them on a virtual dashboard. You should be able to see what your timing is doing as well (at least from the ECU point of view).

For the O2, if you can't get one installed soon, yes I would go somewhere and put your car on a dyno or whatnot specifically to see what the fuel is doing.

As for nothing happening in neutral, it could be load related. Theres some problems that will only show up once you start putting a certain amount of load on the motor.

[FabricatorX]

even our superb tech Eric can't seem to figure out what it is, but I think you may have shed some light when you said cam timing... other than that, replace that O2 sensor, and I would probably re-check the plug wires you have set up.

Also, just bring the car back down, pull out the "test pipe" and I will weld another o2 bung in there for you for the lambda.

double edit haha... the raspy sound is your lack of a resonator. That's all. It's simply high RPM resonance of your motor. Get rid of that can (lol you knew it was coming) and get a real muffler on there with a resonator.

[kinkyllama]

For OBD readers you can either get a standalone unit, or a cable that attaches to your laptop with software.

I have this one here http://www.obd-2.com/

Its pretty good, not only does it read codes, but can also tell you your readings of any sensors connected to your ECU in realtime, and you can monitor them on a virtual dashboard. You should be able to see what your timing is doing as well (at least from the ECU point of view).

For the O2, if you can't get one installed soon, yes I would go somewhere and put your car on a dyno or whatnot specifically to see what the fuel is doing.

As for nothing happening in neutral, it could be load related. Theres some problems that will only show up once you start putting a certain amount of load on the motor.

I didn't see a price on there, how much is the one you have?

It turns out I might have all my wideband parts here so I'll know shortly.

load! that was the word I was looking for. I think it would do the strange noise in neutral if It had some load. Since it gets worst the higher of gear your in.

even our superb tech Eric can't seem to figure out what it is, but I think you may have shed some light when you said cam timing... other than that, replace that O2 sensor, and I would probably re-check the plug wires you have set up.

Also, just bring the car back down, pull out the "test pipe" and I will weld another o2 bung in there for you for the lambda.

double edit haha... the raspy sound is your lack of a resonator. That's all. It's simply high RPM resonance of your motor. Get rid of that can (lol you knew it was coming) and get a real muffler on there with a resonator.

Do you happen to have an o2 bungs at the shop?

Well the cars always had a raspyness too it, but there is a specific area of the powerband that it gets really raspy and you can feel the car lose power.

I'll happily get rid of the can as soon as we build me a new cat-back.

Anyone familiar with walbro fuel pumps?--I'm assuming there is a filter in it, otherwise I wouldn't have one at all, how do you change that fuel filter?

[daewoomofo]

if your talking about the fuel strainer, afik you pull the pump from the tank and its on the intake of the fuel pump, but your pump might be different.

[kinkyllama]

We'll I'm pretty sure it's just a tunning issue. Seams it's leaning out too much and cutting out. Making a dyno appt to tune the SMT-6 and hopfully fix the problem. If we fix it, then I'll by dyno'ing the Kinky headers

Anyone know how much hp the leggy injectors will take? I'm using them because they have the same style connector as my turbo injectors.

[Efratech]

Kinky check the timing...

as for the walbro, well they look like a conventional pump so the filter is separate from it.

and as some have said check the piggyback.

[exist3nce]

I didn't see a price on there, how much is the one you have?

They start at $122, going up from there depending on the features you want.

[kinkyllama]

If you can, I would say bypass the SMT and MSD and so that you are back to completely stock ignition and fuel maps.

Anyone happen to know how to bypass the SMT-6 if possible? wirings my weakest point, and I didn't wire my piggy back.

I still haven't had a chance to go to the dyno, or finish hooking up my wideband. Either I'm brain dead (very possible) or the digital readout that came with my innovative wideband doesn't connect to anny peice of the wideband. Not to mention the push button doesn't push, and the LED doesn't light up, though the sensor does warm up. Oh and the serial port to connect it to a laptop...well we have three different laptops in my house, two different brands, plus desktops and it doesn't fit any of those. I'm 95% postive I wired it correctly too...but I'm paying someone to rewire the whole thing up again before I get frusterated and rip it out.

As soon as I get the wideband working and find my lost piggy back software I'm having someone road tune the car.