Here in South Africa modifying Daewoo`s are about as stable as playing a game of Jenga after consuming a WHOLE bottle of Johnny Walker!! I accidentally stunbled on this Daewootech site and I am thrilled to see some fellow Daewoo lovers around the world. There are no aftermarket parts for modifying Daewoos here and everything done on my car is pretty much custom made. It is a 1999 Model Daewoo Nubira running a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, big intercooler, oil cooler, and approx 0.9bar ( 14PSI) boost. Everyday driving is at 0.6bar boost, and I adjust the boost to 14PSI from inside the car with an adjustable boost controller. The car runs on 95 octane pump fuel. The car makes 246KW and 405NM power on the flywheel, and I am still running standard(machined to drop compression) internals. My best 1/4 mile time is 14.2seconds at 163km/hr
I have posted a video of the 1/4 mile drag and will also still post one of runningit off the clock to 225km/h measured on my GPS
The strange thing is I am still running the standard gearbox from the factory - no LSD or any fancy bits!! The car has done 320 000KM and I have replaced the clutch and pressure plate assembly a few times. This is my daily ride so I get about 50 000KM on a clutch set. I am not running a competition clutch - I have found that a MECARM standard clutch kit can easilly handle the power, oh and I am still running with the CV-joints from the factory as well! I must add that with street tyres my best time is 14.6 seconds on the 1/4 mile with LOTS of wheelspin, and I used Dunlop Direza semi slick tyres to get my 1/4 mile time down to 14.216 secs - much better launch. Howerver it did cost me new engine mountings.....I am in the process of having STRONG engine nounts and control arm bushes made up to handle the power. Will post more vids in a few days
Yes it is a standard Daewoo engine from the factory - it used to make 93KW and 187NM torque on the motor in standard form. I am running a piggyback fuel and timing management system called a "Dastek UNICHIP". At the time of my dyno and 1/4 mile I was running standard injectors with an added (5th) 550cc injector in the boost line - if you look at the pic of the engine you might see it. This was sufficient for 246KW however I am planning to make more power with this car - I have upgraded the injectors now to 4 x 500cc and the "5th" injector is now not used. You will see there is no fuel supply to it. I have added a bigger intercooler as per the pics posted and am in the process of getting forged internal - I have already bought some H-beam Forged chromemmolley conrods that is good for approx. 600BHP! Next buy is some Arias forged pistons. Oh yes another thing - I am using an Opel turbo OPC steel head gasket...this is a straight fit on the Daewoo motor and does away with expensive mods like O-ringing the block and head.
Well I am trying my best to go under 14 secs - at the moment I am concentrating on getting better traction. The easy route would be to lighten the car by "gutting" the insides for weight saving but I dont want to go that route - the car inside is "as is" from the factory except for racing seats and a racing steering wheel. I dont have a sponsor so all the mods are done at my own costs - I reackon a quaiffe Limited Slip Diff will help tremendously for the launch traction but here in South Africa I will be looking at ZAR 10 000 for one!! How about some pics of your cars guys??
I really don't know how your transmission is holding up to that with continuous launches and beating on it. I've blown two D20's which is almost the exact same as your F20 I believe. For me they only last if I keep the torque output to 200ft lbs or less. Check out my thread to see what happens to the trans when I gave it too much torque lol. Mine is tuned with Emanage Blue, also using 2 additional injectors in the charge pipe. Great to see someone running such a similar setup!
Your car looks really cool and I like the way you documented everything from day one. When you say the tranny died at 245FT PD - is this flywheel power or power on the wheels?? I just had my car on the dyno today and it read 238ft lb on the wheels.....maybe it is just a few....perhaps say 7 ft lb away from distruction LOL??? It also made 261HP on the wheels - not bad I suppose for 12PSI boost. The experts here in SA say my car is fitted with a F18 longbox - if this means anything to you guys???
Mine was 245ft lbs @ the wheels. It lasted that way for about 2 months on OEM all season tires. As soon as I got better tires (Toyo T1-R) the trans took a shit. The F18 gearbox is different than what I was talking about. Not sure how much torque is can handle, but by the general ratings these gearboxes have it would suggest even less torque.
Commonly accepted ratings are:
F20 & D20 = 200 ft lbs
F16/D16 = 160 ft lbs
F28 = 280 ft lbs
Do you have a dyno graph from your session? I would really like to see it
Here are the dyno graphs for my car. The first one was done with my old intercooler and standard injectors with the assistance of a 5th 550CC injector. This is recorded as flywheel power. All went well untill an electrical fault on the car`s wiring caused underfuelling and as a result - piston failure and bent valves on cylider No 4. about a month after the dyno run was recorded
The second one was done recently on another dyno and here it is recorder as wheel power - the reason for that is I cannot get my car onto the original dyno anymore! After breaking the motor and rebuilding it I added a bigger intercooler and had the bumper specially designed and built for the car, resulting in a TOO LOW ground clearance on the first dyno. Anyway I think it is good to get various dyno results - that way you can compare and see that the guys are not just "tweaking" their own dyno to make your car look good!!
The xperts say that my cars torque curve is not good - apparantly because I am running an 0.63 exhaust housing the torque comes up very late. They say I should change to an 0.58 exhaust housing to improve bottom end torque?? Any ideas on this??
Sorry to hear about you blowing the piston and bent valves. Thats one thing I'm trying to avoid.
Dyno plots look good, but I'm wondering why didn't you rev past 6000rpm?
You said you are having better engine mounts made...... how much is that costing you? My mounts are so mushy now from the extra power.
In regards to the low end torque, if you are running a larger T3/T4, yes it will spool later and give you less torque. With my turbo I can see I definitely have more low end torque than you, but my turbo is smaller overall and I'm also running a .48 exhaust housing. I've been considering upgrading to a bigger turbo lately to reduce my low end tranny-snapping torque lol. A .58 housing will make you spool a bit quicker, but I wouldn't change the housing unless it actually bothers you.
I am still waitng to hear from the company that`s doing my engine mounts and control arm bushes....! - I will give you info as soon as I hear from them
You are right the power FEELS GOOD!! Especially when you kick butt toa aSubaru WRX STI or BMW M3 costing up to 6 times more than my old car LOL !!
I really dont mind the low low-end torque - under 3500 she pulls like a normal 2litre car maybe a bit better even and when the turbo spools up you get a nice kick in the back - my wife does not like this too much... she get car sick from the power surging when we go to shops etc!! Now when I drive with her in the car I have to keep the revs under 3500rpm for a smooth ride LOL!! It`s really like when I drive normally and keep the revs down she is tame and not too lazy but when I want to race - I drop her down one or two gears, up goes the revs above 4000rpm and the power is there.
You are probably right with the low end torque being the culprit in breaking the gearbox - the other day the tuner that did the dyno on my car also said that I should avoid labouring the car 4th and 5th gears on low revs and rather keep the revs up on full throttle accellerations to put less starin on the tranny???
