Electric's going nuts!!

jl4n3 · Post by **jl4n3** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:49 am

Okay, if you read any in the suspension section you may know that I just changed my right lower control arm.

It was successful and now I want to tackle the minor problems which all appear to be electric related. Here is a list of issues:

2001 Daewoo Nubira SE, Auto, 72,000 miles, no accidents, casual/non-aggressive work transportation, half city half highway miles.

1-I have to put my key in that little slot to get my shifter out of park...I have not a damn clue why...just all of a sudden started about 8 months ago

2-All 3 brake lights do not work. Reverse and running lights DO work.

3-My Check engine light comes on when I get just below 1/4 tank of gas it then goes away usually within a day or ~15miles of driving.

4-just recently seems to allow higher rpm’s before changing gears. For example from 0 to 50, pedal to the metal, it gets to just over 6k RPM before shifting from 2nd to 3rd (I assume it is 2nd to 3rd because it is an automatic and I am fairly automotive ignorant), but it does not shift rough, it’s still fairly smooth…

5-My windows, FR and FL roll up very slowly…window motor or possibly a battery/alternator problem? F—Y—I I have an amplifier power wire ran from the battery through the frame to the trunk, where I had an amplifier back in the day, but it’s not hooked to an amp anymore and is still hooked to the battery, can this cause the battery to drain/weaken?

All minor flaws aside, she has been a fairly faithful car that has never left me stranded unexpectedly. I definitely got my money's worth but I want to driver her a few more years to avoid a car payment...any and all help is so greatly appreciated, some of you have already been a Godsend to me!!!

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:08 am

1. when you push the brake peddle in do you hear a little click from the center console? if not you need the brake safty switch.
2. after reading this i change the answer for #1 to you need the brake light switch, did the brake lights and the shifter problem start at the same time?
3. get your car scanned to see what the CEL is, if your in the usa i know that autozone will scan it for free.
4. i believe that the redline is 6500 rpms. but you dont want to redline it very much, its very bad for the engine and you will blow your auto tranny (i went throught 2 of them befor i learned my lesson).
5. are your rear windows faster? if so your fronts might have weak motors. that amp wire... do you have a inline fuse on it? if not you need to disconnect that wire ASAP that is a major fire hazard, if it shorts out there is no weak link and it will get hot and melt and cause a fire.

jl4n3 · Post by **jl4n3** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:52 pm

Good deal, I will get a Brake Light Switch and remove the amp wire.

What is CEL Scan and what is it for?

jidasas · Post by **jidasas** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:15 pm

The CEL scan will hook a small computer up to your car under the dash and tell you the reason for the Check Engine Light to be coming on...If it's only coming on when your low on gas you could have some water in the tank and it's causing misfires when you get low on fuel because the water is getting into the fuel lines

Jimmy

jl4n3 · Post by **jl4n3** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:39 am

You should be proud to know that you where correct about it being the brake switch!

It was not necessarily "Bad"

I took the switch off and then took it completely apart...2 springs and 2 prongs and 2 circuit connectors. one of the connection points were oxidized so i simply took a nail file to it for a sec and the connectors being symmetrical i rotated it. I then reassembled it and rubbed some olive oil on the "moving parts" AND BADDA BAM! MY BREAK LIGHTS WORK AND MY SHIFTER WORKS LIKE NEW WITHOUT LOCKING UP AT ALL!

Thanks Jimmy!

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:56 am

actually my name is Skinner