Nubaroo - Forged internals upgrade - Resleeve????

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Thu May 08, 2008 7:27 pm

Yeah they are. If it's the one im thinking about it's off the c20xe's, the redtops. It has fins on the bottom too, to aid cooling.

exist3nce · Post by **exist3nce** » Fri May 09, 2008 4:59 am

Nubaroo wrote: Yes you!!!LOL - post me that gearbox and I will send you some SCHWEEEET video clips of my Daewoo burning some serious rubber!!

LOL... I need it more I've broken 2 gearboxes ahaha! I really want to put it in...... but my shop just got too backlogged with work. Soon I'm hoping, I keep asking them like every couple days lol.

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Fri May 09, 2008 6:49 pm

Had a look at the aluminium sump cover today - it HAS fins at the bottom for increased cooling (quite right Pir0) and it has a low oil level sensor as well - pity is the sensor sits exactly where I have to put my oil return from the turbo. I will look and see if I can keep it - the sump cover looks sweet.

I also picked up the 2nd hand block today!!!! - It looks VERY nice and Daewoo says it came off a low mileage engine that broke a cambelt/valves/damaged pistons ETC. So they just installed a new motor for the customer and stripped the old motor for spares. Does anyone know what checks to do on the block???? - I am planning to make +-350KW on this motor and need to know if the block is good???? The engineering shops here want to charge me R1800 to test the block - more than double what I paid for it!!!!

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Sat May 10, 2008 8:47 am

Well if you're going for a nice fresh build, especially for that power you're probably gonna be using arp bolts right?

And you are changing pistons etc too?

One thing to dom even if you're not changing the pistons, is, imo, to change the big end bearings/shell bearings, the ones that go inside the rods, at the part where it goes around the crank. And also the large crank bearings too. Looking at those will also tell you how old or new the engine is. If there's dark grey scores/patches in it it's probably seen a lot of miles, if they're still really silver and shiny then the engines probably barely been broken in. Change them anyway, they're pretty cheap, like 70-90usd tops for the shell bearings.

Other than that, the only other checks i would look for is the piston chambers to see if there's any scoring on the walls. Make sure all the seals are ok too, around the crank. There is a crank in it right? :P

What would the shop be testing btw?

[btw if your blocks gonna use one of those oil windage trays int he sump, i think there's something you have to do to it because arp rod bolts hit it. Not sure what it is though, either you countersink the arp bolts for more clearance or you cut a groove outta the windage tray. I can't remember]

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Sun May 11, 2008 5:09 pm

Hi Pir0

The block I bought is just that - an empty block with main bearing caps in place - no internals or anyrhing else. I will be using my old crank with new crankshaft seals, but install some Chrome Molly Forged H-beam conrods and some ARP conrod bolts, some forged Wossner pistons with a compress ratio of 8.5:1, and as per any rebuild I will put fresh bearings (main and big ends). The sleeves look OK, but I am going to get it bored oversize as the forged pistons are 20-thou oversize. I woulk like to keep the "splash plate" inside the sump, so I will definitally check the ARP bolt clearances and adjust if needed. I will then ransfer ALL the remaining goodies to the new block - head, oil pump, cam belt tensioners, waterpump, starter etc etc.

The shop would presure test the block to check for cracks, and to see if the block is "warped" and if the crank main bearing caps are on size and propperly aligned???

jak4calibrah · Post by **jak4calibrah** » Tue May 13, 2008 1:01 pm

just to let you know, if you run short of money but you still need very good pistons then look into c20let engine the early version with a distributor not dispack. they come with mahle forged pistons and theyre very good. the compression is 9. something
....just throwing out an idea

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Tue May 13, 2008 5:32 pm

Cool thanks - for now I am looking at the Wossner forged pistons, but it would be nice to pick up a complete C20LET engine!!! I will definitally look into the cost effectiveness of rather getting one of those and changing the complete engine.

Pir0 · Post by **Pir0** » Tue May 13, 2008 6:41 pm

c20let's in the uk go for between 800-1500quid.

Which is like 1600-3000usd. mainly around the 2000usd mark though.

Did any opels come with an let in SA? Calibras maybe?

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Tue May 13, 2008 8:40 pm

Not sure - The Opel TS definitely has MAHLE pistons but those are scarce. Maybe I can get a motor from one of the importers bringing in second hand motors and gearboxes- -there are a lot of them in SA

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Thu May 15, 2008 4:27 pm

Tried to refit my diff today......after carefull inspection I found that the broken diff had eaten 2 x big holes into the gearbox casing near thr top

I will have to remove the gearbox now to replace the main casing - I can fortunately get one from my speedshop for R 400.

Now I am going to pull the engine and gearbox together, and while it is out ..... I am going the forged route. I also got my aluminium sump yesterday - very nice. I am hoping to make +-350KW on the motor at +- 1.5bar boost after the rebuild. The forged Wossner pistons are slightly oversized so I will get the "new secondhand" rebored. I will also be looking at a doing a 4puck button clutch to handle the additional planned power. Will keep u posted

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Fri May 16, 2008 6:47 pm

Bought the Wossner pistons today - 0.5MM oversize. Then I found that the bush where the pistons connect to the conrods are not sized propperly( gudgeon pin slightly loose)....and I have had them for alsmost a year and cannot return them to the speedshop for and exchange OR refund

Took the block, pistons and conrods to our engineering shop today - they will make sure everything is bored and sized according to spec. Also got my hands on another crancshaft - I am looking at using it on the new sub assembly rebuild with the forged stuff, and keeping the old sub assembly for spare ( ormaybe another project car.....HE HE HE!) Maybe a little Opel Corsa race car.

Should get the machined stuff Wednesday next week and will post some pics ASAP

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Fri May 16, 2008 7:04 pm

WAIT!

are you saying that the pin slips in the connecting rod and the new forged pistons? ...that is how they are supposed to be so there should be any modding needed.

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Fri May 16, 2008 7:21 pm

Yes the pin slips through the small end of the connecting rod....but the slip and play is excessive. My tuner buddy made me aware of this problem on some rods he bought from the same supplier - I understand there has to be some slip on the floating pin setup, but when you wiggle the pin from side to side when it is in the conrod you can actually "feel" some minute bit of play - hence the resizing of the conrod bushing needed?? I also bought a second hand Opel crank - will this fit in my Woo without any mods ( it si the one with 6 x flywheel bolts??)

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Fri May 16, 2008 8:16 pm

I see, well if you can move it side to side in the pin bore that it's likely they need a new bushing, where they used, OE or steel? where did they come from or who is the manufacturer?

the crank will be fine, it either came from an 8v or a '95-current eco motor. make sure that you order main bearings to the crank you have. all the blocks are the same but there is two different main thrust bearings used depending on the year of the motor.

Nubaroo · Post by **Nubaroo** » Sat May 17, 2008 6:01 am

these rods are Chrome molly forged brand new H-beam rods - seems like there was a small problem in manufacturing hence I am having the small end bushes redone. The crank is from an 8V Opel motor????