I saw i guy on ebay...selling a electric supercharge/turbo for any daewoo
Does anyone know if it is any good?
Or have anyone actually bought it?
Electric Turbo
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
-
- Expert
- Posts: 3052
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 3:51 am
- Location: York, PA
- Contact:
ive said this once and i will say it again, if you get it i will find you and slap you, spend your money elsewhere, its JUNK and will not work.
95 Eclipse GS-Turbo
mods: Greddy Type-S BOV, Greddy Intercooler Piping, Injen Intake, Act 2100 Clutch, Act Xact flywheel, Apexi N1 Downpipe and Catback Exhaust, MCB Set to 16 PSI, BuddyClub2 Bodykit (Not Installed) and Greddy FMIC(not installed)
mods: Greddy Type-S BOV, Greddy Intercooler Piping, Injen Intake, Act 2100 Clutch, Act Xact flywheel, Apexi N1 Downpipe and Catback Exhaust, MCB Set to 16 PSI, BuddyClub2 Bodykit (Not Installed) and Greddy FMIC(not installed)
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I did a post on another site about this.... yes the EBAY superchargers are absolutely useless but the idea of an electric supercharger is not that bad.
If you were to set up a small battery pack specificly designed to put out enough power to run the electric motor turning the supercharger for about 15 seconds you could use it on the track and run it all the way down the 1/4 mile track at 8-10psi of boost.
You need a separate high voltage battery pack because the amount of power required to run the motor would blow up your alternator and kill your battery as it would require about 415amps of power at 14.4Vdc. (that's about 5 times more than your stock alternator can muster) ( 14.4V X 415A = 6000W = 8hp)
Now if you managed forced a 2-3hp electric motor to run at 8hp (7000Watts) for 15 seconds at say 240Vdc you would only require about 25 amps to make the required power. ( 240V X 25A=6000W = 8hp )
Forcing that much power through a lower rated motor is bad for it but it will take it for a few seconds without damage....you would have to let it cool down between races (via electric fan)
Needless to say your high voltage battery pack could be fairly light and small but you would have to recharge it before doing another run (say 5 - 10 minutes charging time)
I will try to dig up my old info but I figured on the Lanos you would gain about 65hp and the added weight would be around 50lbs.
But again............stay away from the EBAY crap.....anything that says it will run off your stock electrical system is useless and will if anything reduce the power output.
I followed up on one of these companies once and I got it out of them that the maximum boost is something like 0.6 Psi which is practicly zero.
If you were to set up a small battery pack specificly designed to put out enough power to run the electric motor turning the supercharger for about 15 seconds you could use it on the track and run it all the way down the 1/4 mile track at 8-10psi of boost.
You need a separate high voltage battery pack because the amount of power required to run the motor would blow up your alternator and kill your battery as it would require about 415amps of power at 14.4Vdc. (that's about 5 times more than your stock alternator can muster) ( 14.4V X 415A = 6000W = 8hp)
Now if you managed forced a 2-3hp electric motor to run at 8hp (7000Watts) for 15 seconds at say 240Vdc you would only require about 25 amps to make the required power. ( 240V X 25A=6000W = 8hp )
Forcing that much power through a lower rated motor is bad for it but it will take it for a few seconds without damage....you would have to let it cool down between races (via electric fan)
Needless to say your high voltage battery pack could be fairly light and small but you would have to recharge it before doing another run (say 5 - 10 minutes charging time)
I will try to dig up my old info but I figured on the Lanos you would gain about 65hp and the added weight would be around 50lbs.
But again............stay away from the EBAY crap.....anything that says it will run off your stock electrical system is useless and will if anything reduce the power output.
I followed up on one of these companies once and I got it out of them that the maximum boost is something like 0.6 Psi which is practicly zero.
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:00 pm
- Location: Wakefield, Massachusetts USA
- Contact:
electric turbo
You guys ever read Dick Dotson's book on turbos and belt driven blowers? It's a little hard to believe some of what he says but it's plausible. He talks about using compressed air to speed up the turbo to kill lag until boost comes up and he's also into belt driven turbos. Not a Paxton or Vortech blower but a modified turbo. Some really wacky stuff but interesting nonetheless. He has a website somewhere dealing with Studebakers as he's a Studebaker drag racing nut.
Tony
Tony
'87 Sunbird GT turbo convertible
13.61 @ 101.44 MPH in 1/4 mile
262 whp 350 lbs ft wtq
13.61 @ 101.44 MPH in 1/4 mile
262 whp 350 lbs ft wtq
-
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 4:23 am
- Location: Southern, New Jersey
-
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:00 pm
- Location: Wakefield, Massachusetts USA
- Contact:
electric turbo
Thanks for the info Grampy. Pretty soon you're gonna start your posts with " you know in my day..." and ending them with "by cracky!" or "by thunder!"
Ha ha ha. Yes, I'm an insolent punk. But I'm lovable!
Tony
Ha ha ha. Yes, I'm an insolent punk. But I'm lovable!
Tony
'87 Sunbird GT turbo convertible
13.61 @ 101.44 MPH in 1/4 mile
262 whp 350 lbs ft wtq
13.61 @ 101.44 MPH in 1/4 mile
262 whp 350 lbs ft wtq
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Can't say as I've heard of Dick Dotson, but it sounds like he fooled around with a number of different setups.
I was also thinking about a compressed air for running a short distance but without a turbo altogether.
A 2.0L engine (122cu inch) needs about 230 CFM of airflow to accomidate the engines volumetric requrirements at 6500 RPM
( 122 / 12^3 ) X ( 6500/2) = 230 CFM
Lets say you wanted to run at 10psi for say 15 seconds...
You would need be able to supply 3.83 Cubic feet of air per second at 10psi of boost.
You also have to take into account that the true pressure = Pboost + Patm = 10psi + 14.7psi = 24.7 PSI
A tank pressurized to 120PSI actually has a total pressure of 137.4 PSI
So you would need 10.3 Cu ft of air which equates to a 77 Gallon tank.
(3.83 Cu Ft / S X 15 s) X ( 137.4/24.7) = 10.3 Cu Ft @ 24.7 psi (10psi boost)
If the tank was say 3 feet long it would have to be about two feet in diameter.
Given a 80 Gallon tank could fit in your trunk I guess it would be possible although it would add a significant amount of weight....say 50 to 75 lbs.
You would have to have some way of creating a very large diverter valve so that you run outside air at idle...then you could open the tank a little so that it produces enough air that you can shut off the outside air. (otherwise you would never get the boost pressure)
Then as you crank up the car in RPM your tank valve would have to open up it's valve accordingly to keep the 10PSI Boost pressure (24.7PSI total).
It's a crazy idea but it would be interesting to try out since you would get an extreemly dense air charge due to the fact that expanding air comes out at a temperature much lower than ambient temperature.
I would also wonder about using a higher pressure bottle ( say 600psi ) since it could be way smaller than a 120psi tank (by a factor of 5)
I was also thinking about a compressed air for running a short distance but without a turbo altogether.
A 2.0L engine (122cu inch) needs about 230 CFM of airflow to accomidate the engines volumetric requrirements at 6500 RPM
( 122 / 12^3 ) X ( 6500/2) = 230 CFM
Lets say you wanted to run at 10psi for say 15 seconds...
You would need be able to supply 3.83 Cubic feet of air per second at 10psi of boost.
You also have to take into account that the true pressure = Pboost + Patm = 10psi + 14.7psi = 24.7 PSI
A tank pressurized to 120PSI actually has a total pressure of 137.4 PSI
So you would need 10.3 Cu ft of air which equates to a 77 Gallon tank.
(3.83 Cu Ft / S X 15 s) X ( 137.4/24.7) = 10.3 Cu Ft @ 24.7 psi (10psi boost)
If the tank was say 3 feet long it would have to be about two feet in diameter.
Given a 80 Gallon tank could fit in your trunk I guess it would be possible although it would add a significant amount of weight....say 50 to 75 lbs.
You would have to have some way of creating a very large diverter valve so that you run outside air at idle...then you could open the tank a little so that it produces enough air that you can shut off the outside air. (otherwise you would never get the boost pressure)
Then as you crank up the car in RPM your tank valve would have to open up it's valve accordingly to keep the 10PSI Boost pressure (24.7PSI total).
It's a crazy idea but it would be interesting to try out since you would get an extreemly dense air charge due to the fact that expanding air comes out at a temperature much lower than ambient temperature.
I would also wonder about using a higher pressure bottle ( say 600psi ) since it could be way smaller than a 120psi tank (by a factor of 5)